Fitting Franke PKX 110 sink as OverMount in Solid Wood worktop

Does that sinktop have a nice enough finish to the top edge/flange for it to be visible?

The only way you can fit it over-mount is as you say - drop it in. But you'd need to find a way to secure it down firmly so you can use the usual 'mastic' or foam gaskets so adhering to oil won't be an issue. A 'normal' inset sinktop has numerous tie-down clips along its perimeter to ensure the the top edge is pulled very tightly down to make it waterproof. How will you do the same with this sink?

Surely there is an proper 'inset' equivalent to this sink somewhere? I'd play safe on this one.

 

Yep .


Bludy better be at £300...

 

I supply and fit Blanco sinks 99% of the time.

Franke sinks are very good quality, but I think Blanco are as good if not better.

The "IF" range of Blanco sinks have a very thin lip that sits on the surface of the worktop. Only a mm or two thick, so it has a very low profile. I have fitted loads over the last few years, and can highly recommend them.

Snezza.

 

If I were going to mount the IF sink on the surface as you stated, I would oil the worktops prior to installation of the sink. Make sure you oil the sink cut-out at the same time and of course the underneath of the tops PRIOR to the installation of them.

One of the ways I have done it in the past with this type of sink and a Solid wood top, is to rebate the sink into the top surface by the thickness of the IF lip. This gives the sink a "Flush" fit, level with the top of the worksurface. The same rules apply regarding the oiling etc. Then, a consistent, unbroken bead of silicone all the way round the lip of the sink, then clamped down will give a good seal. The downside to this feature is that very accurate machining of the rebate is required to match the exact shape of the sinks lip, but it should be well within the capabilities of a good kitchen fitter.

Hope this helps!

Snezza.

 

Doesn't routing a wee rim around t'edge expose end grain if only even a wee bit?

 

I suppose it all depends on how well the rebate has been machined and sealed. As long as the depth of the rebate is the same thickness as the lip of the sink, then when the sealant is applied, it would ooze out a little and the excess just wiped off, thus filling any tiny little gap where a possible end grain may be exposed.
I have done this on a number of occasions and so far, have had no problems whatsoever.

PS. I would never have Solid timber worktops in my own kitchen. They require constant maintenance to keep them looking in good condition and unless you buy REALLY GOOD QUALITY tops in the first place, they will still expand and contract and bow and cup. The more you spend the less movement you will get in the tops, but as wood is a natural material, there will always be some degree of movement.
Snezza.

 

Perfect advice from Snezza. Both in fitting and re maintenance.
Just fitted a load and it looks good but client will have to work at it to keep it looking perfect.