Fitting light instead of ceiling rose - Advice please.

are you gonna stuff the 'chocky block' in the ceiling ?

 

go for it

 

if you use chock blocks then they will need to be enclosed, ie not just taped so you might as well put them in a joint box & have 1 cable coming through ceiling.   not a good idea to take all cables into the light because the chock block nor the cables will stand up to the heat.

 

i get loads of jobs to put up light fittings. usually costs them more than the light itself. Two ways to look at it, 1) don't pay and forever look at it ? 'did i do that right ?' 'is it safe?' 'is it going to catch fire?' 'what if this, what if that....etc etc.

2) pay a sparks, leave your tools in the shed, watch sky sports instead of sitting on the computer all day, relax in the knowledge it's been professionally done, sit back and enjoy your new light fitting without having to lift a finger or worry about a thing ! all for paying peanuts really !!!

 

Can't you leave the rose-plate there, and just fix your new fitting over it, using the same wiring terminals as your original pendant (ie 1 to neutrals-1 to single live)+ earth?


Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Most people are able to change a light fitting, and i wouldnt suggest that its a good idea to go wasting your money on calling a sparks round, BUT, that relies on the fact that your competant in doing the task in hand. Loose terminations cause fires, simple. To answer your OP, yes what youve said is right and your fitting will work, and yes terminations should be enclosed in a compliant enclosure and all that but a connector block  above the light in the ceiling isnt the end of the world. Just ensure your terminations are tight.

 

Add three single wires(brown/blue/greenyellow)-(stripped from another cable if you like), and connect them between fitting and rose-plate(similar to how you would if it were a pendant).


Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

The regs say that all connections must be enclosed in a suitable enclosure and the cable must have cord grips as to not put pressure on the terminals themselves which could result in them being stressed and pulled out. JB's dont comply anymore but they do a connector box that your connecter block fits inside. simple and cheap. 

 

You appear to be going over board with the enclosure aspects chaps. It is acceptable to wire the connections in a connector block (to use its correct terminology) and leave them in the light fitting housing. The housing IS the enclosure. As for heat, I doubt that heat will affect a remote area of the fitting unless its one of those round bulkhead type fittings that fit flush to the ceiling. That's different. If the ceiling rose base can be left in, as suggested by handy, then that is also a good solution. All you do in that case, pringles, is wire the light fitting connections in to the former pendant connections. Or, if using a connector block, use a 4-gang, one way for the three live connections, one for the cpcs, one for the neutrals and one for the switched live. I like 15A size connector block personally as I find 5A too small for all the wires. 15A is a nice size to use.