Fitting skirting on skimmed dot & dab wall

hi.
put a spirit level against the wall and then measure the distance from that to the wall and cut some timber blocks to that size. Screw those to the block work and then screw the skirting to the blocks.

 

It's quite normal. Just put some good dabs of grip fill and the odd screw 3/4 of the way up.

 

Oh, and don't forget to scribe your internal corner joints

 

As said, just build up the gripfil at the plasterboard, the skirting will squash it flush for you. Press tight at the top only-onto the plaster.

I had occasion once where there was a deeper gap. I blobbed adhesive in places, scraped it flush with a straight-edge down the wall and allowed it to set. Fixing the skirting to that was perfect(nice straight fit along the plastered wall too).

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

The skim never goes down to the floor and it's not supposed to.

 

Use expanding foam in a gun. Lightly mist the plaster with a plant sprayer and then put a couple of neat beads of foam on the skirting and just push it into place. Stick something heavy against it for 10 mins and it will be off. Gripfill doesn't like fresh plaster too much. It fails a lot.

I cannot remember the last time I used Gripfill. Foam is a superb fixing medium. Used properly and with a well set up gun it will do most jobs.

 

If you're clever enough, you can mitre(but I WON'T start that debate up again).

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Here we go Handy! You've lit the touchpaper now!

 

I was working with a load of polish lads the other day who had never seen scribing!

 

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Did they just butt it up and fill with caulk?

 

Or silicone!

 

Just a gaping mitre!

 

I had to fit skirting in a right angled triangle shaped room once...had to mitre 2 of the corners!!

 

Just the thoughts of a diy'er here but when fiting long lengths of skirting, and using gripfill or similar, solvent based, have found that it skins up so quickly that it doesn't always squash flat between wall and skirting.

Also agree that on fresh plaster, have seen skirts come off the wall with the gripfill stuck to the timber but clean off the wall

Have found it sticks better if the plaster is mist coated first and also prefer using solvent free,cleaner to use, longer working time, wipe any excess away with damp cloth and no strong smell. Have been buying Evo Stick brand lately, yellow tube

Ok, you don't get the same instant grab but just find it's so much easier to work with

 

I'd use expanding foam with extreme caution. By that I mean I wouldn't exp foam at all...

As a fellow DIYer, I'm with Dave on this one - for exactly the same reasons. Solvent-based adhesives skin very quickly, so when you squish them betwixt t'skirting and t'wall, part of the skinned surface of the bead - which is now pressed against the wall and skirting - struggles to adhere; the bits that stick best is from the adhesive that 'bursts' out from that skin. Ok, if you are super-quick and it also goes smoothly first time, then fine.

Also, it can skin to the point of having a thick skin in a couple of short minutes, so can be hard to press fully flush unless you are quick and it all goes well.

Also, if you need to reposition the work for any reason, even immediately, you're going to have a hell of a mess.

Also, solvent-free can be applied with more abandon as it's simply not a chore when excess gets extruded out - simply wipe off with a damp cloth to leave a virtually-filled finish. In fact it allows you to place a bead close to the edges knowing it'll only be of benefit. If solvent-based stuff got squished out, you'd have to tackle it with a scraper or similar.

Also...

You chust need to ensure you have clamps/braces or plugs/screw to hand before you position the work. With skirting I prefer to brace the skirting in place with long battens either from across from the other wall, or via blocks screwed into the floor (if it's a bare floor, of course...) or even from heavy furniture (if it's your ain hoosie...). Ie - no screws at all.