Hi, I did have a quick gander using the search, but I couldn't see anything that covered my quite general query comprehensively, so I'll ask here and hopefully you chaps/chapesses can assist. In short, I'm about to (attempt to) replace some kitchen worktop. I think a new worktop will lift a slightly jaded looking kitchen and I think we made a mistake with black anyway. Wood laminate is going to be better I think. As ever with these things, I research, then do a bit more research and then maybe go back and do a bit more. I'm a little autistic, so I tend to be quite obsessive and very careful. So, anyway, the query is, can you just confirm that my thinking is correct. the way I see it is that the process goes something like this: 1) Level and square cabinets etc (should be OK since I'm replacing anyway, but I will check) 2) Cut worktop to the right length. 3) Scribe worktop to the wall (kind of essential in my 1850s cottage). 4) Cut any mitres needed. Since I have a U shaped kitchen, and due to position of the sink, it makes sense to me to work from left to right making a female mitre on the right hand edges of the centre and left worktop pieces, and male mitres on the centre and right hand piece. I'm sure it's a very basic question but since I've never done it before I just thought I would ask the professionals. (On the other hand I know quite a lot about beer, pinball and marketing which doesn't have a great deal of relevance here.) So does that sound about right?
Working clockwise is the normal way i try to work with worktops (can't always depending on the sink position). A little tip for how to scribe the tops, lay the first left top in position and make shure the distance from the front edge of the worktop to the front of the cab is the same at both ends of the top. If the cab is 560mm deep you will want to finish with a 40mm overhang, so if you have a 50mm overhang you then cut a 10mm scribing block and run that along the wall to get a line at the back of the top to scribe. Once done,remove top. Now cut a top 50mm overlength including the joint and lay that on the head of your u shape and scribe the back in the same way as the first top, repeat for the next top. When you actually rout the mitres always lay the male over the female and mark from underneath. 9mm away from the line is the position for the furthest edge of the worktop jig.
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