Hi guys, Am used to hanging doors in old frames and trimming them to suit. But have got quite a lot of new linings to put in, with some new 762 doors. All in stud work that Ill be making. My question is how often do people manage to get the door gap bang on perfect all the way around first time when cutting their lining and positioning their studs. When building the opening in the stud wall what insures the best measurement. Ive seen some people leave out the head and one leg so that they can but one side of the lining up to the studwork and then just cut and fit the other side and head nice and tight. Is it just a case of allowing 2mm or so extra each side of the doors width to the overall lining width and then making sure the lining is braced at that width when installed? I need to make these doors of mine as easy as possible to get up first time without much playing around planing. Any tips would be great. I dont do a massive amount of carpentry but am fairly competent. Cheers guys
I put my frames in at 1/4" more than the size of the door (width ways, height to suit the door+ a bit depending on what flooring is going in) I take care to ensure the sides are plumb and the head is level.(using wedges/fillers where necessary) Once it comes to fitting the door, it's a simple case of creating a slight leading edge on both sides of the door, marking and cutting the hinges and hanging it... Never fails. Used to hate going on site and fitting the frames, only to find that later on I didn't get that plot for second fix (always seemed to get someone else's first fix to go hang doors in)
If it involves several fittings I make up a frame that can be used to build the studs to, then knock it out and use it for the next doorway. It needs to be a robust frame to not be squeezed by the studs. Then your linings and door will fit into that space. However with any such work allowance must be made, so the frame or template would need to be slightly bigger than your finished size of lining, by a few mm or so all round. That way the door and linings will go in and you will be able to pack it all out for a nice fit. Its tempting to try and work the door and linings along with the studwork. But often the reason a door takes time is because the subframe and/or studwork is not solid enough and shifts about during the door fitting.
If your doing all the framing as well then there shouldn't be any problem. Get your framing bang on plumb and allow 1/4" clearance for fitting the frame. When making frames I allow the thickness of a 2p for door clearance at sides and lintel (I still use an old 1d for this but that's showing my age) The clearance at floor level depends on the floor covering. As JJ says slightly back bevel the door to assist with fitting. Wouldn't think it was a good idea to fit the frame in bits, better to make it as one unit and firmly brace while fitting. Using this method I would expect to get it bang on every time.
In some circumstances subject to site conditions it is possible to plumb and fix the hinge side firmly and temporarily fix the lock side with plenty of room then hang door and then you can proceed to fit the rest of the lining to the door.perfect.
Just been doing some renovation on a building in France and we purchased doors ready fitted in frames complete primed/under coated, with door stops 2 lever lock - no handles - for 20 euros. Easy to fit frame to walls then make good all round. Door then replaced on 'lift-off' hinges. As they are manufactured so accurately we could swop door styles a round just by lifting off their hinges. All fitted perfectly. Also done some work in Spain and it is also normal for the door to be supplied ready hung in a frame with all furniture fitted. Easy to lift off if required.
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