heatloss calculator

try going to www.cityplumbing.co.uk they have one on there mate that i use all the time.

 

well i was always taught to work out the size rad and go for the next size up, gives them the option to then turn the rad down if they are too warm, they cant if its too cold. then add all the rad sizes together and there you go. dont forget to add 2kw for hot wateror 7000btu.
as for odd shaped rooms i always get the longest wall/walls and then use them for calculations. that way you are never going to undersize

 

IT WILL NEED TO 3 KW FOR HOT WATER WHICH EQUALS TO 10,236 BTU'S, ALSO NEED TO ADD 15% FOR EACH ROOM CALCULATING, AND THEN ADD 20% ON TO THE TOTAL.

 

if u wana get really pedantic, have a design temp of 21 deg c , an allowance of 10% for intermittent heating, a allowance of 5 % for pipe losses and 2 kw for hot water. this is all in line with the governments new energy efficiency best practice stuff

 

3KW is correct.

 

id better get onto energy efficiency chaps then as thats whats in there booklet and wot they teach on the course

 

Goal posts are forever getting moved. Heatloss calculations are exactly what it says on the can- loss of heat from a room. All building materials will have different coefficients of transmittance. I was taught to calculate with external temperature at –1 degree C and internal at 16 for bedrooms, 18 for halls, 20 for lounge and 25 for bathrooms plus air changes. Obviously design temperatures would not suit everyone, so adjusted or preferred room temperatures are used instead of design temperatures. Winter could be extra cold so 10% could be added (if need be) for sever winter. North and south orientation played a part in calculations too. Two similar rooms, one facing south and other north would need different size rads. Exposure to element is another factor. End of the day one can make any rad any size you want as long as the rooms are heated adequately. An oversized rad strapped with a TRV is going to take up larger wall space and cost more to install as well.

An installation that has been sized correctly will result in design temperature acquisition by using a roomstat set at temperature for the room in which it is installed. No TRVs need to be used, as heat loss will equal heat output of the rad. Heating does not have to be switched off in the summer as roomstat does its job summer and winter. On the other hand a fully TRVed system does not control the boiler when house is at comfort level.

HW cylinder would have been fitted with 3kw immersion heater so 3kw was apportion for that.

 

Part l and Energy Efficiency demand trv's (except where roomstat is) along with 'boiler interlock', bypass etc etc etc. They even impose their own 'whole house sizing method'. Few options other than 'standard' or 'best practice'. We should all really be singing from the same songsheet!

 

Sparkydude...Did you get a heatloss calc that worked? The Barlo one is a little complicated to get going but I have done it. If anyone wants to know how post here and I'll run through the steps.

 

Try this one its the best I've come across for the money
CENTRAL HEATING COUNCIL www.centralheating.co.uk

 

Okay here goes........Go to the Barlo download area:
http://www.barlo.co.uk/pages/download.cfm then click "here" to download the software.

Windows then brings up the download dialougue box with a couple of options click on "save". When you do this it will come up with "SAVE AS" Note at the top it gives details of the directory to which it is going to save the file called SOFTWARE. Note this directory name. Click "save".

When the download has completed you get the option to "open" or "open folder" or "close". Click "open folder". It then displays the file called SOFTWARE. This is probably where you got lost. This is a zip file which contains a load of files and needs to be extracted. (NOTE the following instructions are for Windows XP - if you don't have it then the procedure is different - let me know if you don't have XP and I'll detail what to do)
Right.....Use the mouse and right click on "SOFTWARE" you get a list of options. The fourth one down is "Extract all"...click on this and it opens the extraction wizard. Click "next". It then asks you to select a destination. It should say "Files will be extracted to this directory" Delete everything that is in the box below this and type "a:\" Now put a blank floppy disk in the drive and then click next. It will then extract all the files to a floppy disk. Once it has done this you can then following the rest of the Barlo instructions which are:
4. When the software has unzipped to the floppy disk, click the Windows "Start" button, and choose Run..
5. Type "a:\set-up" and press Enter.
6. Follow on-screen instructions to install the Barlo Heatloss Calculator.

Let me know if it doesn't work and I'll figure why and point you in the right direction again!

 

On the Barlo heatloss what is number of air change and what should it be set to

thanks nyck