Help with connecting double insulated light fitting

Hi.

1. Yes, the earths need to be connected together and sleeved to ensure the rest of the circuit has earth continuity.

2. Have you been told how this has been wired up? If its loop-in, loop-out (and switched with the rest of the room), then you can connect the lives and neutrals together including your light fitting using something like the Wago push-fit connectors.
If one cable is a switch wire, you will need to connect one wire to the supply and the other to the light fitting.

Its hard to see from the photo how much space you have in the fitting but the Wago push-fit connectors usually do the job.

 

Tip! Don't use the supplied method of terminating the fitting. They are ridiculously fiddly so just undo the wires from the metal block and use a conventional connector strip, 15A preferably, as more space, else 5A will do. Then terminate the earths in the normal way.

 

I presume there's a timber noggin behind there for you to screw your new light to?

Anyways, Beetie, you need to open that junction box and have a looksee (post a photo if necessary) before working out how to wire it to your fitting. Is this a single wall light, or one of two?

The way I'd sort this conundrum - and I know I'll be shot down for it - is to measure the side-profile of that JB and then cut a slot in the p'board just large enough to allow it to be passed through into the wall.

Fist I'd add a short length of 2-core + earth cable to it, either normal T&E stuff or else 3-core flexible cable (probably the latter as it's nicer to work with.)

Then I'd push that JB into the wall, and replace the cut-out bit of p'board using a little filler to join it - hopefully the new light fitting will fully cover the mess, er, cut.

Inside the light fitting, the earth will need terminating in a single terminal-strip, and taped over. A future light fitting may well need this earth.

Jobbie jobbed, and who's to know? Eh?

 

No DA there is ample room in the light fitting base to wire it all up, with a 4-way connector block if needed. L, SL, N and E or just a 3-way SL, N and E. If the jb is currently securing the wires I suspect it will be a matter of stripping them right back to within an inch of the wall and leaving approx. 100mm on each conductor to wire in to the fitting. Sinking jbs in to plaster is very poor. Like I said in my tip, the connector contraption supplied on the fitting is diabolical and should be removed.

 

I knew it was wrong in my heart of hearts...

 

I always thought that the crappy connector that comes with the light contributes to its class II status...what with all the connections being in that plastic box

 

That's a fair point Rob. I would suspect the Wago connectors are of far higher spec than the crappy ones fitted with most light fittings, but i have contacted Wago and will post their reply up.

 

Hi Fats. Speaking as a fan of Wago's I think maybe 222's are indicated because I note there are stranded cable in the mix..there could be space issues however.

 

hi JP. Good point mate! I've fired off the email already, so will see what they come back with.
Cheers!

 

No probs Fats - keep up the good work m8.

 

The real problem with this kind of fitting is when its replacing a ceiling light connect via a plastic rose as you now have 3 or 4 T&E cables coming out of the ceiling
As said above, those supplied connectors are crappy and miniscule, just ok for a single cable but no more

I've replaced several lights in my own house with this situation and have replaced the supplied connector with a 15A strip connector, so plenty of room for all cables
If you have access above the fitting, say a loft then you could locate the plastic rose in the loft (or change for a JB) then just drop 1 cable back down to the fitting

Good point raised though about maintaining class 11 rating when discarding the supplied connector
Would this be maintained though with a strip connector wrapped in insulation tape ?

This always looks like a bodge to me but I am just an amateur !

 

Cables poking down, plenty of room above. Enlarge hole to suit grip box, term up with 222's or a mix of 222's and 773's with round out (3 core if cpc on circuit) put in grip box and seal, also cable tie t+ e's, whip in a strip of chipboard with hole and round sticking out. Glue down, strike with poly let dry feather and paint and screw to chipboard (careful screws don't hit cable, keep to what 1/2, 3/4 and stuff. Jobs a goodun, and all conforms to maintenance free and stuff. Before sticking box through verify continuity's and blib bla bla..and don't mess switch l's up and stuff...blib bla bla blib

 

I am not sure that removing that Heath Robinson connector is detrimental to the Class II rating. If you want to be belt and braces just wrap the strip connector in a couple of turns of insulation tape.

 

Here is the reply from Wago:

Electrically the 773 series would be the equivalent or better to the connector supplied. The 773 series are fully insulated.
We can not comment on the lighting standards, as it is not our area and do not know the wording. Whether they comply or not would depend on the exact wording of the standard.

So, I guess it would be a question for the IEE to determine if a) there is a BS for the connectors within the fittings b) if the Wago connector complies (which i am sure it would far exceed).