High Build Masonry Paint

can i ask y u r using a high build paint
y
don t you use a weather shield or sandstone paint by far the easiest to get good coverage on the walls
apply to coats by roller and hey presto your done

 

Not sure what you are trying to do here. A high build paint by it's nature is less easy to get smooth, it is likely to hold a texture (I am assuming this is an acrylic or emulsion paint you are using here, you've mentioned no brand names). There are a few finishing products that can be troweled but most have a lime content and are very specialised. Look to Oikos Bluebell and Lafarge Italia for advice regarding these.
As Forest says you would perhaps be better looking at a high quality masonry paint like Sandtex Ultra Smooth or some of the other Akzo Nobel Masonry coatings.
Cait

 

Knowing more about what you are trying to do helps to understand your approach a lot more. The key to most successful touchups is to fill...only the area that has the hole and no more, to smooth...only the area that you filled and no more and to paint...only the area that was filled and no more...but given that you have already done the filling and tried the painting and that the holes are many and various, I have a funny feeling you will now never get a match. You could try using a damp soft bristled brush to dust back the edge but I suspect that you will end up with a sheen difference whatever you do. I would suspect that you will need to paint the whole wall again and even this might not "lose" the filling completely but would probably detract the eye from the problem areas.
This is a tough one without seeing it. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Cait

 

HGC,
Sorry, but I reckon you're never going to totally lose those patches without rendering the whole surface. OK, you've managed to get problem areas the right texture...which is smooth, but you have float marks right?? Are they actually marks or are they "texture" left by the float? If they are actual marks then I would say coat again, if it's texture...I don't know.
What I'd do is get everything the texture that I want and then coat again giving a new texture - smooth or slightly textured all over whatever, just to get an even texture all over.
Can I ask, are you determined to have an ultrasmooth finish??? or is it that you just want the texture to be the same all over? Do you just want these patches to disappear?
I'm just trying to find out what it is you really want from all this.
Cait

 

the 1 and only answer to this mate is to use a smooth roller
your trying to do something a professional would do and they have a world of experience above you
either get the pro to do it (and i reckon you already looked into that but found them to expensive)so now your trying to do a cheaper job w/o the experience
mate your wasting your time
your never get it rite and it will cost you loads
added by a pro

 

this solution won't give you a smooth finish but you may be able to be creative and get close to the finish on your extension (failing that do your extension as well to match). However, you will cover your repairs without altering the architectural line of the render/building.

You need; 2xbuckets, a big stick, building/soft sand, ordinary cement, PVA (wproof prefer), 1xsoft bristled banister brush.

one bucket has cold water for clean up, the other is less than one quarter filled with cold water - add to it a dollop of pva and mix well - hand shovel into this equal parts sand/cement mixing all the time. You want a loosish slurry (wetter than paint). Dip in your brush and brush onto the surface, keep dipping and brushing on in m2's - make sure you keep the mix well stirred to stop the sand from separating and sinking to the bottom of the bucket. Lots of air bubbles on the wall means the mix is too thin, it's too thick if it clumps on the wall and won't brush out.

Apply two coats, ideally leave overnight between coats. Don't play with the first coat when dry, it won't be fully set. Apply a nice thick second coat and style it as you go. You can have random stipples or swirling from the banister brush but in your case i reckon a (not too) damp sponge off will give you a good match.

After a day of two you'll have a rock hard surface to paint onto (slightly thin the first coat).

Practice on some plaster boards first to get your finish matched up. Tarpaulin the floor, don't mix up too much gear at once, use what you mix and keep your buckets clean at breaktimes.

Faced with this option i reckon you'll accept a few tram lines in your high build paint!!!

 

Between Forest and David, I reckon you had some pretty good answers. The biggest problem is that if you hired one of us on consultancy to just come and see the job (up close in person) then maybe we could give you the answer but there is a level here of "what the heck is it he's trying to do?" and another of "what the heck does his extension look like?" and another of..."if I was standing in front of the job I'd know exactly how to solve the problem and if I didn't I'd know where to find out..." but given that this is over the internet...
Yes it would be nice to have it the same as your extension but if it is the same colour as the extension and the texture is the same all over the area, I'd be happy with that given that it's a DIY job...so go with Dave's idea.
I think the most telling thing was what Forest said about the fact that you are trying to do a pro job...

It's the years, it's the standing in front of the job, it's the phoning your old boss or a mate who you respect in the trade...but more than anything it's the standing in front of the job with the years behind you.

 

no need to key or seal that's the point of this. v. flaky surfaces need a scrape off as would areas of high relief i.e heavy textures. From your photos you look good to go straight on. Your mix looks pretty close to me, maybe a bit thin. I'm afraid the best description i can come up with is a consistancy close to melted chocolate. Although the process will take a bit of sweat it shouldn't be a hard action to perform.

You can patch in the repair areas and feather off to some success. for a truly uniform look that hides the tie ins etc you have to do the entire wall.

What part of the country are you in?


David

 

that's a shame only recently finished a run of work in the newton abbott area, if you were closer now i would've given you a couple of hours and shown you.

Be persistent and you'll get the result.

David