Hello all, I've just recently moved into a new place and the kitchen hot water tap will run dry if left on after about 30 seconds to a minute (the flow strength is really low even when first turn them on). Cold water tap is fine, as are all the other hot water taps around the house. I got under the kitchen sink and there was a valve for hot and one for cold - I tried turning the hot one (both directions) and it didn't seem to make any difference. Would be really grateful if anyone has any ideas what this could be!
It's a conventional tap, I'm guessing -ie a multi-turn rubber washer type? Almost certainly it's simply down to expansion of the innards which closes the tap off as it heats up. What happens is that the screw thread that drives the washer up and down as you turn the handle has partially seized and doesn't open the tap as far as it should in the first place. Then, as it heats up and expands, it shuts it back orf. Solution? You need to either replace or disassemble the tap. Remove the handle and undo the large nut underneath - try and remove the whole workings as one unit. Take it apart - very obvious and easy - clean out all the gunk and coat liberally with silicone grease (every home should have a tub...) Refit - and go WOW! at your new smooth-running fast-flowing tap.
I'm er a he I just tried the hot tap again now and it is barley a trickle at the start and does not even have a chance to push any really hot water through (it's just luke warm at best) before it runs out, so not sure if it's the hot water causing the expansion to shut it off as it doesn't seem like enough hot water to have any effect - what do you think?
I reckon you need to flush the pipe through. Gunk in there and the more it runs, the more it blocks. Turn the valve off under the sink. Remove tap, and slowly turn the valve on under the sink until it flows without gushing everywhere obviously. Rinse the tap under the cold tap and put back together. Mr. HandyAndy - Really
Hi, could you disconnect the water supply below the kitchen tap, then turn the water back on, and see what the flow is like ? Good flow means tap u/s, part blocked etc. Poor flow = supply fault, blocked/restricted flow upstream, are all valves turned fully on that supply this tap ?
What's the cold tap like? I mean, does it 'feel' the same? does it turn open as many times? Does the cold tap turn smoothly all the way until it comes to a 'clunk' halt? And does the hot do the same - or does it come to a sticky end? (If you do not have isolating valves on the pipes supplying the taps, fit them - full bore types - as part of the job.)