Yesterday (25th July 2017) I had a new boiler fitted. Everything was working perfectly before this. A new boiler was fitted as previous one was getting old and being disabled I cannot afford to be left with no heating. New boiler is: Firebird Enviormax Condensing Boiler Slimline External 35 kw model Inside there is a very large hot water cylinder. I went out to look at the new boiler and commented on the easy to see thermostat. I asked what temperatures did it cover. The engineer told me 60 degrees to 80 degrees. I asked what it should be set on and he told me it is always best to leave it on maximum 80 degrees and let the inside controls control everything. While they were here they fired up the boiler and put the heating on and did the commissioning and bled and balanced the system. The radiators, after releasing an air lock, became very hot very quickly. Today, 26th July 2017, my Carer pressed the one hour button for hot water. The water was hot enough for what he needed so he went back and switched it off. As he was doing this he noticed the hall was very hot and went to feel the radiator and it was boiling hot. He went round the house and most of the radiators were really hot too. Why are the radiators boiling hot? 1. Only hot water was set at on position 2. Radiators were switched to off position and light was off 3. Everything was working properly prior to fitting the new boiler yesterday 4. I know for certain that NO radiators are connected to come on when the hot water ONLY is called for There are two radiators which do not have TRV's They told me there is an auto air vent in the boiler I know there is an auto air vent upstairs next to the hot water cylinder The boiler should stay on until the water temperature is up to 65 degrees and then it should send a message back to the boiler to turn off. So I see three simple possible problems: 1. By sheer coincidence, on the same day as new boiler is fitted, the thermostat has failed on the hot water tank. (Unlikely in my opinion.) 2. The system has been wired up incorrectly 3. I also just thought that an airlock could be the cause Obviously this is a brand new boiler and brand new installation. However, if it is something simple like an airlock we could sort this ourselves to save the engineer coming all the way back. (I live out in the middle of nowhere so I don't want to call them out if it is just an airlock.) Am I right in thinking when bleeding the system it should be started at the bottom of the house nearest to the boiler and then work up to the top floor? AND that this should be done with all the controls off so that the pump does not draw in air? Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to waste energy bleeding the system if that is unlikely to be the cause of the problem. Thanks in advance everyone. Giggling Star.
Its just the timer wired the wrong way around. The CH and HW are reversed. Get the guys who installed it back.
It's wired wrong..I wouldn't of thought it's the programmer though as mentioned above as the hot water come on as it should.
I don't think the programmer is wired incorrectly as I don't think they even altered any wires in the programmer. The boiler replacement was just as boiler change so a swap from a Worcester system external 25 kw boiler to a Firebird system external 35 kw boiler. The water did get hot so the thermostat upstairs should have sent a signal back to switch off the boiler once the water was up to temperature. I am just going to try to get up there to check the thermostat is working and to bleed the rest of the radiators. At least I can then rule out the airlock and broken thermostat.
They could of left the zone valve open manually after filling the system. This would cause rads to become hot when the boiler runs. No point guessing though, get them back. It's their problem to sort
Would the fact that the boiler is set on 80 degrees inside the casing of the actual external boiler and the hot water thermostat is set on 63 or 64 degrees cause a problem? 1. I have bled all the radiators except one which I could not do and there were no air locks at all. 2. There is a red lever which can be set to open or closed position. I have made sure it is fully open. 3. The thermostats inside the house click on and off when I move the temperature up and down. 3. I have not checked the thermostat on the actual boiler outside. Do you think I should try turning this down a little....if so what should I set it on. If it is set on maximum will this not just cause it to run and run forever until the timer goes off? After checking for air locks and finding none I let everything cool down and then pressed the hot water button. The water pipes are so hot that I burned myself when I touched one of them. The boiler is not switching off when the temperature reaches 64 degrees. When the temperature reaches 64 degrees the pump is switching on and circulating the water round to the radiators. So I guess this must mean that the wiring in the boiler is not wired to switch off when the thermostat sends the message that there is enough hot water.
Get them back. No point you fiddling. Adjusting the boilers stat will not do a thing. It is set as recommended. If the waters thermostat is satisfied and the boiler still fires, it sounds like a wiring issue. There must still be a call.
Oh I am not sure if I have a zone valve. My heating is connected to a back boiler on a wood stove so I don't think I am allowed to have a zone valve but I am not sure. There is a red lever upstairs by the tank but I am not sure what that is. I thought it was some type of lever to use in the case of an emergency of some sort but I am not sure. I thought during normal procedure it was always set to the open position. I know that I cannot have the radiators on without having the hot water on. If I press for the radiators the hot water light comes on because of it being linked to a wood stove. This means the water always has to heat up first, then when the water is up to temperature the water goes to any radiators that are switched on and then if there is too much heat it can go out through the expansion pipe which is plumbed to go back into one of the tanks upstairs. All safety features which are necessary for a dual system.
I am certain the wiring has not been wired correctly in the boiler so I will definitely get them back. I have tried everything I can so they will need to sort it out as it was all working perfectly before. The previous boiler was just under power for when I wanted to use the boiler without the wood stove. 25 kw is not really enough power for 14 radiators - all doubles and many very large ones - which is why I had it changed.
Thanks for your advice Lectrician. I had tried everything I know about and I would not touch anything I don't know about. My Father was a heating engineer so I did know of quite a lot of things to check such as checking for air locks, bleeding radiators, checking auto air vents are set in a working position, and checking thermostats and pumps are all working correctly. It is very clear that the thermostat is not telling the boiler to switch off when the water reaches temperature so it must be a wiring problem in the boiler. There should not have been any reason to alter the wiring in the room thermostat or programmer so I hope they didn't touch that. I heard them talking and to be honest I don't think the electrician realised it was a dual heating system until he came in to switch the heating on to test it. I hope the boiler is compatible with a dual heating system! lol That would be a massive blunder. I would have thought these days that most external boilers would be suitable for a dual heating system though. I have just sent a text stating that the boiler is switching the pump on to circulate the water round the radiators instead of switching the boiler off so at least they know exactly what the problem is. Thanks for your help everyone. Kind Regards from Giggling Star
DO NOT MEDDLE! Get the fitters back to fix it or to explain where you are getting it wrong, they should have tested it before they left and they should have ensured that you or the person using the boiler was sufficiently informed. Sounds like a 'Warm Front' job to me.
I had same with daughters house, I found the micro switch inside the motorised valve had failed, so previous occupant had put the bleed leaver on motorised valve latched to bleed position, unlatching resulted in no heating only hot water. It is possible all that is wrong with your system is some one forgot to return the lever to run, and it's latched on bleed.
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