How do you make a gate like this??

45 degrees, use pythagorus's theorum.

 

I am totally rubbish at maths also, so what I tend to do with these type of problems, is draw them up in Sketchup as a lot of the maths gets worked out in the process.

 

Have you thought about using a metal frame (galvanised) for the gates.

Depending on the span of the gates, doesn't look like there will be enough bracing strength in the design.

 

Something like this, the gaps can be increased to allow more light, but still privacy.

 

And possibly placed at 45 degs with a centre stile to match the original design

 

The good thing about that design (looks nice ) is that it has stile rails covering the cut ends. So you can afford to be a wee bit oot.

Also, if you change the way the T&Gs fit on each 'side' (eg - start from the top on one side, and from t'bottom an t'other) then each single 45o cut will work on both pieces.

I think...

Mind you, I don't know if it'll be a problem having the grooves facing upwards on one side?

 

Will also double up as a ladder to allow unwanted visitors to access your property!!!!!!!

 

Never seen one of those in Screwfix! I would stick with a wood saw.

 

Depends on what shoes you're wearing.

 

You could put a coil of razor wire at the top.

 

Mark centre line, set one board at 45, lay boards long past edge and just cut off excess.

 

Crikey Jit, your toe nails need cutting!

 

Nice as well as being aesthetically pleasing!

 

As does your apostrophe.

 

Why do you need a formula?

make your frame then cut one end of the loglap at 45, put it on the frame and mark the other end.

Always start with the longest length first and then use the offcuts for shorter lengths.

your biggest problem will be stopping the frame from sagging once its hung and your are goung to need some substantial hinges.

 

Good point Sos - cut the longest lengths first.

Another possible reason for the largish trims over the perimeter and down the centre of the gate shown in your first photo, Andy, is to hide an expansion gap. I suspect that these T&G boards will move quite a lot.

I think it's your plan anyway, but make up the self-supporting gate frame with a good strong diagonal strut, and then perhaps 'lightly' attach the cladding - I'm not sure what sort of fixings would be used for this on a building, but something similar that'll allow movement without splitting or buckling?

 

Shouldn"t move too much length ways, width will be a problem.

The frame will require a rebate or extra timber fixed on the inside to fix the loglap to. In the picture there is a central vettical rail to not knky provide support but also hide the inconsistdcies in the timber and cutting - mismatched herring bone pattern looks dreadfull.

As well as diagonal bracing the frame is going to need either metal or ply triangle bracing to the corners to stop it racking. I would also fit spring load castors to the where the gates meet.

Getting a pair of these measured exactly and hung evenly is going to be tricky. If they ae even a little bit out it will look ugly. Previously, what i have done is to make this up as one piece - both gates together, then fit both sets of hinges to then run a saw down the centre to separate.

And as always treat the timber before assembling so when the timber moves there are no unsightly unfinished bits showing.