how to stop an integrated washing machine from moving...??1

i had one this week where the door springs open on full spin. I suggested they turned it down! :^O

Its so much better when they have a proper free standing appliance in a utility room. I would not dream of having an integrated WM in my own house.

 

We had a lot of ones go wrong in a large apparment block in manchester.In one flat the a women put switched it on and went out when she came back it had vibrated so much it was in the middle of the kitchen being held back by the waste etc!! I did not believe this over the phone until i got there and there it was!There was a problem in the factory they had fitted them with falty dampers to lots of machines and not realized!I replaced about 20 out of about 80 and had was instructed by the manufacture(to keep warranty)to fit it on a piece of worktop cut to size (sent from germany)we do this with all integrated washers now either in a kitchen or utility.Now i use a foreseer bit and put two holes about 4mm deep at the front under both legs just a bit bigger than the foot o/d just to help.10NO 90KG WASHERS UP 4 FLOORS! I HATE THEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Keep the app gap tight and put worktop under them that is screwed down, a clear bead of silicone down the sides helps, the reason why the legs are short is that they are made for the continental market and not UK ( 870mm ) underside.

 

whats all this **** about lumps of worktop under the legs, this is to slipery, i always use a piece of 4 x 2 rough sawn 500mm long under each side fixed onto offcuts of shelf or cabinet, and use the short legs.

 

tricky micky
whats all this ** about lumps of worktop under the legs, this is to slipery, i always use a piece of 4 x 2 rough sawn 500mm long under each side fixed onto offcuts of shelf or cabinet, and use the short legs.

NOT if you turn it upside down and gripfill to the floor!

The <u>ONLY</u> real way is to buy the extension kits that are available from the maunfacturers!

 

hi, i find the best way to fit an intergrated washing machine & door where it will never move & i've done this & it works 1st time every time. is to put the washing machine & door onto a pick-up strap it down tightly & take it straight to the local council dump. that way it will never move in the beautiful kitchen you've just spent days fitting. hope this was helpful

 

I use 40mm worktop (28mm if tight on height) cut to 600 x 500ish (depending on cabs/ plinth position etc) and place it upside down so less slippery. It can't be seen once the plinth is fitted. It's easy to make sure it's perfectly level this way so there's no need to level the rear feet on appliances that can't be adjusted from the front. I then use wall brackets (sometimes with a slight cutout to make them fit better) as others have mentioned. Since I have been doing this I haven't had any problems and no longer fear the dreaded wandering washing machine syndrome. I also agree with another poster who suggest a 603mm gap and would even go to 605-606. It can make all the difference in door alignment as if it does move a tiny bit it has moved by a smaller percentage as the gap is wider. Any discrepancy is then less noticeable. This does mean that you might have to tweak the door in the adjacent cabinets to even things out a bit.

 

Having read the suggestions, which seem fair enough (mostly).. no-one mentions the method I use, which makes me wonder if it's flawed. I cut a tight filler between w/top and washer bedded & sealed with clear silicone. It seems to minimise the vibration and I've never been called back to one that's moved. *touch wood*