Greetings! Apologies for a long post, but I suppose the Devil is in the details. At some point in the past, the previous occupants decided to move the back door out a couple of metres; this encompassed a once external cupboard, in a porch/extension. It's a single-brick build, and the cupboard and ceiling are the weak aspects regarding heat loss - so I want to insulate the two external walls of the cupboard, and the roof space. The plan for the cupboard is (diagram at bottom) : Put a breathable membrane across the walls, floor, and ceiling (taped together). Put two treated 1x1 roofing battens at the top and bottom of the wall, giving a 25mm gap. Put three treated 2x1 roofing battens vertically, screwed into the two battens. 50mm Celotex betwixt the second battens. Vapour membrane over the top. Insulated plasterboard screwed through to the battens. My concerns are: To secure the first battens to the wall I'll need to screw through the breather membrane, unless I put it over the battens, and fold it around them; then the timber might get damp, surely? The ceiling void between the plasterboard and tiles, do I need to ventilate it? It's not currently ventilated, and just looks like like PVC panelling on either side. I could add some vents, if I need to. Any feedback would be great.
The proposed insulation for the walls sounds fine apart from the 25x25 horizontal batons screwed to the wall. Is it possible to make the frame up first with the first layer of membrane stapled to it and fitted in place 25mm from the wall be screwing it to the ground and to the ceiling joists, this give you no contact with the outside wall. Is the roof a pitched roof with a flat ceiling on the inside so you have a void above the ceiling, if so do you know if this void is insurlated, only asking because if you put vents in you will cause a cold area in the void.
If you google the construction of a timber frame house and try and stick to that, you will be fine. But what propose is not going to effect your lifetime
Maybe because it's already there so is impractical to try and insulate, unless it's at a lower level that can be built up.
I suspect many don't even ponder it being necessary - I known some to argue that floor insulation isn't required based on the fact that heat rises
Hi guys, thanks for your replies. I'm not yet sure what lies beyond the plasterboard ceiling, so I don't know what sort of structure is there to attach the frame; probably not a lot. I was going to cut it out closer to the time, as the board is about the only thing between the inside and the outside, but I can probably cut an inspection hole and cover it. Sorry for not being too clear in my original post; I plan to insulate the ceiling with Celotex and board, with maybe some rock wool on top. It's not insulated at moment, but I need to pull the board down anyway. It leaked with the awful weather at Christmas, and I patched the flashing with sealant until the weather improves - it's not leaked since, but I need to inspect it before I redo the flashing. With the breathable and vapour membrane being carried across the ceiling, I figured the vents wouldn't be necessary, but wasn't sure. I was planning on insulating the floor with a 50mm board, but as that's where the washing machine sits, I've not yet looked into the kind of weight the boards can take. I don't know if I'll need to frame the base, fill it, and board it first. I'll cut the same off the door, as it's level with the inside (some bodge of concrete).
Does anyone know if i insulate a garage with a floating floor, how do I leave it at the garage door to prevent bridging from outside? Given the floor inside will rise up compared to the slab outside. What does the finish at the door look like?
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