Internal Door 'varnish'

Ersin, spray is certainly an option, tho' it'll work out as an expensive one. Yes, that's what they sue in the factory do to speed and quality of finish.

What would you use - aerosols? It should work, but needs a bit of experience - tho' I'm sure you'll be fine.

(If you spray too far away it'll be a grainy textured finish, too close and the paint could run. Also, over-spray on to an area that's already started to dry could again produce a 'textured' finish. And, it'll dry very thin so won't give the ultimate protection that brushed-on will (much, much thicker...)

I'd still be inclined to use Diamond Hard satin water-based (quick-drying) varnish, or else Danish Oil (or one of the more specific oils mentioned earlier.)

Oil will certainly give the most stunning finish of all these - no risk of runs, over-spray, brush marks, etc. And after a few coats it will look hmmmmmmmmmmm.

 

With a clear lacquer you wouldn't be gaining much on the quality of finish by spraying, especially spraying out of cans, not to mention canned lacquer never goes very far so you'd need a fair amount, if you want varnish or lacquer application with a brush would be fine, you can get some two pack lacquers that work well with hand application.

 

You could, and if it were me, I'd water down the light oak varnish by 20% at least. You want something to soak in.

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Take care using any varnish with colour in it. You might be ok - it might even give the exact finish you are after - but it's a complete gamble.

AfaIk, coloured varnish is used to give 'white' wood such as pine a phony colour. And I've used 'light oaks' before which have been the weirdest shade you could imagine, as it totally depends on the wood you are applying it to.

And, coloured varnish coats the wood grain like a sheet of tinted plastic film; the more you add, the less you'll see of the grain.

I strongly suggest you do a trial of a hidden area first - are the edges bound in veneer too? Try the top and bottoms.

It's a bit of an unknown - that's the problem.

I'd personally still be looking to use 'clear'. I think.

(Tho' I actually would use oil )

 

Both are good makes - two of the best 'known' brands. I suspect there are some specialist brnads and products out there which are even better, but I just don't know - soz.

BUT - sorry again - this is what I'd do, I'm pretty certain:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Osmo-Door-O...&qid=1394408362&sr=8-1&keywords=osmo+door+oil



The Amazon reviews are universally impressive. A few mention 'veneers'. One does mention that it darkens the oak more than they'd anticipated, so I suspect you will end up with that light golden glow I think you are after.

 

I knew you were watching that video because I have control of your computer.

Scary, huh?

Tee-hee - only kidding.

I was watching through your window.

Anyways, that's a cracking answer on that Osmo site - exactly what you were after.

I'd use exactly what they recommend for internal doors, because it was designed for internal doors, and it says it on the tin.

(And I think the cove in the video said it was thinner - easier - to apply? Or thicker - one or t'other.)

Read the instructions fully - I think I'd apply thin coats like the cove in the video did, and not 'soak' the timber (often, when applying oils such as Danish, you saturate the surface, allow it to soak in as much as possible, and then wipe off the excess after around a half-hour before buffing.)

But - do whatever it says on the tin.

Do one door first. The veneer just won't lift...

(But don't come crying to me if... )

 

Yes, that white 'wash' looks nice. I remember using something similar around 20 years ago which was designed to not tint (darken) natural timber as varnish would. I had just made some open-tread staircases for my bro out of 2" thick piranha pine, and loved the way it looked just natural. I was terrified of it going 'yellow-mellow' pine colour.

This varnish had a hint of 'white' in it. Hmmm, just didn't work... It was clearly 'unnatural', so I ended up using clear varnish instead.

Not to say that this stuff is anything like that, of course.

BUT, anything you add with a tint is going to make application more tricky. Any overlaps are like to be a shade darker, for instance, so where your grain changes direction on the door stiles, you are likely to have to be super-precise so's as not to go over the edge and on to a different direction path. Get what I'm saying?

It might not be like that at all, of course, but you'll certainly be ok with natural oil - brush it on, wipe it over. Job done.

Light oak is also very contemporary. It also goes with pretty much any and every colour - from white to black.

I can't advise any further as I haven't, myself, done what you are planning.

But I'm pretty sure I'd 'play safe' .

It's gotta be your choice, of course.

 

I'm almost certain that one will turn out 'matt' and the other, well, er, on balance, will be kind of, y'know, er, um, not matt.

Matt certainly has it's place in the echelons of surface finishes, but it's a rare one. For good reason. It's matt. So dull.

Satin is BY FAR the classier finish - it'll be glowing, vibrant, lustrous, luxurious, deeply moving, compelling, absorbing, and just generally pretty nifty.

Gloss is tacky so pants.

Matt is matt so double-pants.

Satin is chust awesome in its awesomeness.

If you need any confirmation of the above, please ask .

 

OOOOooooooooOOOOOOOoooooooohhh! That's niiiiiiiiiiiiiice

You must be both chuffed and relieved.

Seriously nice doors. Nice job - well done.

(You do know the veneer will lift in a few months, so enjoy it until then...)

Only kidsings

 

Light oak woodstain(looks like!)

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Don't be silly...

 

I've just read this entire thread and though VERY helpful, I am still hesitant to use Oil rather than Satin Varnish. I have purchased these: http://www.xljoinery.co.uk/detail.php?id=3988&tc=2, and the instruction card specifically says not to use 'thin penetrating seals, oils, wax, dyes or hard, brittle finishes'. One of the doors is going on a bathroom so obviously will experience high humidity/moisture. Will this oil seal as well as the varnish? Sorry to resurrect this one but I'm in the exact same dilemma !!!