Hello, About to fit: JG Speedfit 15ESOTP Emergency Shut Off Tap 15mm to a barrier 15mm pipe. I noticed the value part that shuts off the flow is significantly smaller than 15mm. Maybe half, and that is when its fully open. I have just spent a lot of money on a water pump to service a shower / kitchen and bathroom. Logic would dictate that this shut off tap would cause a restriction and reduce water flow rates significantly. Any thoughts? Thanks
Just the thoughts of a diy'er but as you've not had any other responses, I'll tell you as much as I know on the subject ! The majority of flexi tap connectors, isolator valves and supplied tap tails will all reduce the internal pipe diameter considerably. So any 15mm compatible fitting will have an internal measurement of maybe 8-10 mm (I'm guessing here a bit, but reduced definitely) If this is enough to make a significant reduction though, I cant answer that If your concerned though, why not fit a "full bore" valve as means of isolation A couple of examples below for you; http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-full-bore-isolating-valve/46860 http://www.screwfix.com/p/full-bore-lever-ball-valve-15mm/80413 If you decide to use either of these, ensure that you use inserts in your plastic pipe (same make inserts as pipe) And that's all I know Stuart.....Maybe a "pro" will be along later
Many thanks P B for those kind words I've been given plenty of good advice from the forum and like to give a little back, if and when I feel I have something positive to add to a thread
Hi Dave, Thank you for replying. Well the first item I bought was infact a full bore ball value, the second link actually. Then a DIY lord with greater DIY skills apprehended this purchase and laughed saying it was a bad choice due to being very hard to get a good seal using a metal joint attached to a plastic pipe. Sounded like non-sense to me, but as I was looking up to this advise (as one does to perceived higher DIY lords) so I decided it must be correct. Would be most interested in your views once again Many Thanks Stuart
compression on plastic is fine, if you use the right inserts and copper olives. if your not 100% confident in doing it tho just use a plasitc coupler alittle copper pipe then fit the valve to the copper.
Copper is softer than brass so easier to get a good seal without over tightening the fitting and risk crushing the plastic pipe (even with insert in place) Leaking compression fittings are often caused by over tightening, sounds strange but the olive deforms the copper pipe and then leaks Of course, under tightened fittings will also leak.......you just get a feeling when they are tight enough and the olive has done its job. I think as a rule of thumb its hand tight then a half to three quarters turn with a spanner. Get the water back on and if the joint weeps, nip up a little more Good luck
Okay, happy to have a go at that. Someone mentioned using PTFE when using compression joints on plastic. Is PTFE or paste or both required or beneficial? Thanks Dave
neither is required, if you have a bad olive then a few raps around the olive can normally solve the drip. paste is oil based and is best kept away from plastics as it can have a chemical reaction with them.
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