Jig for fitting Screwfix 34mm cam lock dowels and 15mm cam lock

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by johnwmcc, May 18, 2017.

  1. johnwmcc

    johnwmcc New Member

    I have gone to some hours of effort, and expense of nearly £30 on buying metal drill bushes, to make two jigs for fitting these dowels and cam locks. In spite of taking extreme care making the jigs, and making several trial joints in scrap material, the joints still don't align perfectly.

    Picture of the 3D drawing for jigs attached:
    Cam lock jig - bushed.png

    Is there a commercially made jig for these fixings? I've not found one either in the Screwfix catalogue or from a more general Google search. If anyone knows where to find one for under £50, I'd welcome a link to a source of one.

    I have an old Record general purpose dowelling jig but it doesn't really fit the bill, and only has bushes for a small selection of Imperial sizes (1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 1/2") - so no 7mm or 4.5mm, which are both needed for the body and thread of the cam dowels, and no 15mm bush for the cam lock. The 5/16" bush is close enough for the 8mm wood dowels, but that isn't enough.

    I'm working on adjusting my jigs to improve the fit, but this is WAY too hard. The fixings are good and well made, and not expensive, but in spite of years of experience making jigs of all kinds for woodworking, I'm finding these very hard to get right.

    Or are these joint fixings really only useful for industrial users with computer controlled drilling machines?
     
  2. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Never used a jig apart from lining up the hole in the end of the board and that was a simple piece of wood with two dowels and a hole the same size as the drill bit.

    upload_2017-5-18_18-44-21.png
    They are quite simple to use, it just measuring accurately and using forstner bit to cut the cam lock hole and brad point bit to position the holes for the dowels.
     
  3. johnwmcc

    johnwmcc New Member

    Did you just use one Cam lock per joint, and two dowel holes? With the cam lock dowel where your pencil is in the image?
     
  4. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    If I was making something like a wardrobe, i would mark where the dowels would be, then transfer the marks to the board where the cams would be. I use centering jig and line up on the edge of the board. Then where the pencil is, just drill down. Then use a forstner bit to drill the hole where the cam goes.

    The guy in this video uses a screw to mark the edge of the board,

    I never tried that method, I tried using one of the dowel marking pins like the ones below but found the mark was never quite centre in the edge of the board

    upload_2017-5-18_19-30-31.png
     
  5. johnwmcc

    johnwmcc New Member

    I may be trying for higher precision than the man in the video. Looks as if he tolerates (or has designed it that way) overlaps of maybe 1-1.5mm (1/16in). I'm trying to get dead flush, and missing by maybe 0.2-0.3mm.
     
  6. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Apart from very experienced cabinet makers nobody will get that fine a tolerance when but joining materials

    Even if you go to rebated joints cut with a router bit you will find that difference in the materials means that you will have to adjust the width of the rebate to cater for differences in material thickness.
     
  7. johnwmcc

    johnwmcc New Member

    I try to work to cabinet making tolerances, and my jig adjusts for material thickness. But I can't get the holes for the bushes precisely enough located. I'm using a drill press of sorts but it has too much play in the bearings, I think.

    Trying to fettle the wood pieces to shift the relative positions of the bushes.

    I'm still a bit surprised that there doesn't seem to be a commercially made jig for this.
     
  8. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    You could look on the Hafele site, they have lots of jigs.
    On a commercial scale this sort of stuff is done by CNC so no need for a jig.
    I just do this sort of thing by hand and leave enough tolerance for adjustment.
     
  9. johnwmcc

    johnwmcc New Member

    Thanks for the suggestion. I've just looked, but they don't have any jigs for this or even similar purposes
     
  10. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    What are you making?
     
  11. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    You could use the Lamello connectors
     
  12. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    If you're drilling into timber the drill will shift depending on the ring and on ply depending on the grain, if it's MDF or MFC why are you trying to be this accurate?
     
  13. johnwmcc

    johnwmcc New Member

    A (really) small bookcase as a practice piece, and a larger storage cabinet with pull out shelves on full extension runners. The storage cabinet has to be knock down for transport to its destination. [So I can't use Lamello/biscuit glued joints.]

    I can probably slightly modify the bookcase design so it isn't so critical to get flush joints, but allow (as I see IKEA do on their bookcases) the sides to project beyond top and bottom by perhaps 2-3mm. That would mask any remaining inaccuracy in the joints.

    The storage cabinet doesn't have flush top or bottom. So I'm over-thinking this - thanks, all, for making me reconsider both the design, and my unrealistic expectations about achievable precision.

    I just do this as a hobby, so mostly I'm doing at least some part of the process for the first time, like this form of KD joint
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2017
  14. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

  15. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    For something like that I would get a basic carcass and use the cam lock section as a template to make the jig.

    So by aligning and clamping to the jig material, drill through the carcass piece to get a reasonably accurate copy.
     
  16. johnwmcc

    johnwmcc New Member

    I see that I could use the Clamex connectors, which I didn't know about. But at £1 each or thereabouts, too expensive, and too big for the small bookcase.

    I can't see where to buy fewer than 80 either.
     
  17. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    why not? you don't have to glue the biscuits in at first. My standard way of making butt jointed carcasses is nice straight cut boards (using TS55) and biscuit joints. Sometimes with screws as well. A screw head is no worse than a camlock fixing in appearance. Does depend where its visible of course.
     
  18. johnwmcc

    johnwmcc New Member

    The cam lock would be inside , and essentially out of sight. A screw head would have to be (I think) outside, and visible.

    But with a slight change in bookcase design, I can get a good-looking joint with the cam lock, just not a dead flush one.
     
  19. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    If I've understood you correctly the difficulty arises out of the fact that the outer edges of the cabinet aren't aligning when the cam is tightened on the locking dowel/pin. As has been mentioned, any variation in the thickness of the board is going to create an error when you use the cam lock concealed on the inside of the board. Cam locks I have used previously all have some play in them and I think you are trying to use them to do two things in one when you should be using separate aligning dowels which take their reference from the outside of the cabinet not the inside like the cam locks.
    There are a number of ways you can align the outer edges very accurately using drill jigs and dowels or preferably a router set up with stopped rebates and/or a loose spline arrangement then use the cam locks to independently create the knock down/tightening flexibility that you require for your situation.
    I don't think I've explained myself very well I'm afraid but good luck.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2017
  20. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    Most flat pack cabinets have the side panels slightly proud of the top and bottom. So it actually sounds like you have done that right. Its just not what you want?
     

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