Lowering a concrete Kitchen floor

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Lanc lad, Mar 26, 2016.

  1. Rob_bv

    Rob_bv Active Member

    Sounds like it should be safe enough to grind down then, but I'd let your missus know that she's responsible for cleaning up (that way you won't get in trouble when the fine dust kiboshes her favourite hoover. Trust me on this...) ;)
     
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    2.9mtrs x 9mtrs your looking at 2.7 cubic metres of concrete maybe a bit more to laid.

    Hire a industrail vac, well worth it.
     
  3. Lanc lad

    Lanc lad New Member

    Yes I wouldn't be laying the new wooden floor for a month or so anyway
    Ha Ha...Ive got a screwfix list and one of those Titan hoovers is on it to help with the dust, aswel as polybacked dustsheets

    I am kinda siding with the grinding out however longwinded and messy, am I best going down 2-3 mm less than the 23 mm and this will be fine for the self levelling compound?

    Also KIAB mentioned the floor grinding machine which seems the way to go, or could it still be possible to hand grind a seriously large amount of strips at 25mm close together and then just chisel out?.....Don't laugh at that :)
     
  4. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    A lot easier going up & down a floor with floor grinder, & easier on your knees...


    Never been able to get on with polybacked dust sheets, I prefer heavy plastic stapled to a piece of 2x1 or 2x2, then wrapped around it & held in place against ceiling with a couple of extension support rods, you for hold plasterboards sheets in place.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2016
  5. Lanc lad

    Lanc lad New Member

    Fair Point, I'll look at some prices when my local hire shops open in the morning.
     
  6. Lanc lad

    Lanc lad New Member

    That's sounds a better idea..
     
  7. Rulland

    Rulland Well-Known Member

    Am I correct in thinking there is a push along machine jobby like a lawnmower type affair, that will grind a slot out, sure I've seen one used by peeps doing roadworks etc, if so, can one set this for say 27-29mm depth, and in effect, as the Op suggests, 'score' loads of slots and then break them out?.
    I'm a building work novice, but if a machine is available that grinds the concrete down, surely that is a lot if grinding?, I've seen on sites where they use a machine for 'smoothing' laid tiles, but I'd assume that's just for final levelling and polishing-such as in supermarket floors etc.
    As stated, just a mere non building person, so please be gentle if I'm way off mark, and constructive criticism is welcome, not slating :rolleyes:
     
  8. BMC2000

    BMC2000 Active Member

    A divorce would be cheaper!
     
  9. chippie244

    chippie244 Well-Known Member

    Like a wall chaser?
     
  10. Rulland

    Rulland Well-Known Member

    Yes Chippie, but it's push along sorta height, not like a hand held thing where ya gonna have to bend over and crawl along the floor with it.
     
  11. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    I'm sure the last concrete grinder I used was self propelled.
     
  12. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select


    You're gonna have to forgive me if I'm being a bit thick, but if you make it all level, THEN put a flooring in the kitchen, the kitchen will be higher again.

    No?

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  13. Lanc lad

    Lanc lad New Member

    Ha ha, no
    Once the 23mm has been removed it then becomes level with the rest of the house at floor board level, I can just run the wooden floor right through then. Although I've just realised (dohhh) that I guess I'm going to have to plywood over the top of the concrete as I can't run wooden flooring and underlay directly over concrete can I?

    This would mean I would have to take more than 23/25 mm out to allow for the plywood thickness


    Edit, on a bit of research I can lay it on the concrete with certain adhesive's, not ideal but still a goer.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2016
  14. chippie244

    chippie244 Well-Known Member

    You don't have to ply over concrete.
     
  15. Lanc lad

    Lanc lad New Member

    Yeah I just edited my last post when I looked the issue up, back to 23mm then :)
     
  16. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select


    Oh, I see. So you're flooring over all the rest as well. Ok.
     
  17. BMC2000

    BMC2000 Active Member

    23mm of plywood on the non concrete area an option?
     
  18. Lanc lad

    Lanc lad New Member

    So I had a a quote of just over £500 for the machine to cut through the concrete and the guy explained abt the mess, a scrabbler was £200 but not 100% would do the job. Anyway for some reason the mrs all of a sudden said talk to me abt raising the floor, unbelievable after it being a no no

    So one of the major problems would be the front door frame (we had a new rockdoor fitted last year) from the floorboards in the hallway to the bottom of the door its abt 40mm........How the hell could I raise it the 23mm I need then put down 20mm solid oak flooring?......We have another door to the side which would have the same problem too

    Any ideas?
     
  19. chippie244

    chippie244 Well-Known Member

    Don't use solid wood flooring, use engineered. Nothing to do with heights just a better job.
     
  20. Lanc lad

    Lanc lad New Member

    Actually mate we are looking at 14mm engineered now with 3-4 mm of real wood, this could get us some leeway on the height issue..
     

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