Metal Back Boxes Protrude to Far! Solution?

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by stitch-up, Nov 25, 2014.

  1. stitch-up

    stitch-up Member

    Hi guys

    Prior to having some internal walls roughed and plastered I fitted some additional power socket metal back boxes. The builder told me I wouldn't need to sink them into the wall as he'd be able to build up with a thicker render/plaster - he was nearly right :) .

    On fitting the face plates there's part of the metal back box showing - it's bugging me!

    Does anyone know of an easy solution rather than having to hack it out and go deeper? Perhaps some sort of plastic rim to sit behind the faceplate to hide the metal?

    Cheers

    John
     
  2. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    How much is showing? You could run a bead of decorators caulk around the gap if it's only a few mm, a bit of a bodge of course but there's little else you can do is there. I say use decorators caulk rather than silicone as it's easier to clean up and does take paint, unlike silicone.
     
    FatHands likes this.
  3. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Hack it out and put in a shallower box?

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  4. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    What is the depth of the current back boxes? If they are 35mm you could go for 25mm ones, but if they are 25mm ones at present then do the above as there won't be enough room. I usually fit 35mm back boxes for all socket outlets.
     
  5. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    You don't say how many sockets but even if it was 4 or 5 I would just disconect everything and bash out a deeper hole at the back. Sound like you only need to take it back a few mils off the brickwork so long as your mega careful with your cold chisel how much work is that? A couple of hours? three at most? Drill out the screw holes a bit deeper and bung in some new rawl plugs. Any chips etc, make good with a bit of filler.
     
  6. Have you actually tried fitting a socket over the box? If the box is only sticking out 2 or 3 mm, then I think you'll find the socket has a lip around it that'll fit over this and the edges of the socket will sit nicely against the wall.
    Failing that, take an angle-grinder to the b...
     
  7. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    I was thinking using an angle grinder, but because they boxes are galvanised the cut edges could go rusty, unless they are treated. 2 -3 mm won't make a different unless they are flat plate sockets (flush).
     
  8. stitch-up

    stitch-up Member

    Wow! Thanks for all the replies and advice :)

    I have about 20 double boxes to sort out, they're 25mm deep. They protrude from the plaster by approx 7mm - I haven't tried fitting a faceplate yet but my gut feeling is it's not going to sit flush against the plaster.

    I did think there might be some sort of white plastic surround with an aperture to allow it to fit over the back box and provide sufficient thickness to take up the gap, something like a finger plate you get for light switches - would make my life so much easier :)

    Something like this:
    [​IMG]

    Thanks again guys.

    John
     
  9. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    To be honest the best solution is to remove the box and chop it in some more. I had this recently and that's what I did. Bloody builders coc k up. If the builder had done his dot and dab correctly it would have been flush with your 25mm box. Leaving it 7mm proud is quite frankley a bodge. He should be made to skim it to the right depth in my opinion but we all know that aint gonna happen.
     
    FatHands and seneca like this.
  10. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    I saw rhe picture of the wiring, why so many sockets?

    The. Surrounds lokok cheap, the best way is to re sink the back boxes, this needs to be done carefully otherwise you risk damaging the cables.

    Maybe yoy could carefully cut away a little plaster just above the box, where cables enter so the cable can be out the way. Was gonna reccomnd to use the armeg box sinker but I have never used this so dont know how good it is.
     
  11. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    When the plasterboard was fitted, they could have been skimmed to accomodate the boxes?
     
  12. stitch-up

    stitch-up Member

    The annoying part for me is that I specifically asked the builders if they required me to sink the boxes for the very reason that I didn't want them protruding - I was told 'No, it won't be an issue'. They now tell me I'll probably need to do it!

    The reason for so many is that part of the premises will be used for our printing business and we do need the flexibility of plenty of points. I do go overboard and probably have put to many but, it's easier to do it before than after :)

    Cheers

    John
     
  13. Now I know why they call you 'Stitch-up'... ;)

    Is your plasterer in any way shame-faced by his complete misjudgement? Does he realise the hassle of redoing this leccy job?

    If you had paid for a sparky to fit these boxes on the plasterer's say of "no need to sink, guv'", I'd be deducting the extra amount the sparky would charge for now sinking the boxes from the plasterer's bill...

    Anyways, how to sort. 7mm is a lot. I can only see two realistic solutions; the first is your own idea, and by far the easiest one (if you can find these plates and they are a decent 5mm thick). The second is to sink the boxes, I'm afraid - but that's the 'proper' solution.

    Trimming them ain't an option; the darned things are already shallow at 25mm, and you'll really struggle to get the wiring inside them as it is - I'm guessing there's at least 2 of 2.5T&E cables in each one?! Take 5mm off that (even if you could without damaging the screw lugs) would make fitting an impossibility.

    So, keep searching for back plates... :(

    (If you do have to go the sinking route, do yourself a massive favour and sink them down to at least 30+mm to provide extra space for wiring. Even deeper if it's no hassle - just use extra-long socket screws. Seriously, 25mm back box for a power socket... sheeeesh.)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 26, 2014
  14. See these trims you've found? If they are less than 5mm thick and the only ones you can find, then you can still use them by fitting them with a few little spacers underneath and then fill in the surrounding gap with a neat bead smoothed flush using a strong adhesive like white StixAll. That will effectively make them part of the wall...
     
  15. JP.

    JP. Screwfix Select

    I cant work out how the plasterers left boxes sticking out what some 7mm - how on earth does this sort of thing happen because as you are laying on the hardwall plaster you can see stuff sticking out and lay and flat more on..or maybe you are limited in plaster depth by door lining/s, so the boxes in this case should have been put in deeper.

    Don't understand tbqh. I would ask to have the job done properly as, as is, its not done properly.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2014
  16. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    Where's the pics?
     
  17. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    That's what I've been waiting for too Lec!
     
  18. Ray Retired

    Ray Retired Active Member

  19. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    They look very useful Ray, not just for the op's problem but anywhere where a bit more depth is needed, eg adding a spur cable to a ring circuit when there's only a 25mm back box for example.
     
  20. Ray Retired

    Ray Retired Active Member

    Aye, I see your point Sen... They'd prolly need a bit of butchering & botch'ulism to span the metal back box's :(
     

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