More bad news for Fats - crumbling wall

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by FatHands, Aug 4, 2014.

  1. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Evening,

    I am working on my landing at the moment. Plastered about half of it so far (heat permitting!).
    The wall directly above the staircase has quite a bow in it. When i removed the plasterboard panel at the bottom i discovered only half of the wall is sitting on anything. :(

    The wall is 1 metre wide, 2.5 high and about 8 cm thick. It doesn't look like its tied in to the inner course of brickwork and if half the floor boards weren't rotten; it would still be hanging over the edge of them (please see attachments). It's a late 50's council house by the way. The panel above the bathroom door (to the left of the wall in the photo) is plasterboard which makes me think this wall isn't supporting anything above.

    Should i call a builder in to look, or perhaps call my insurer to see if they will send an engineer out?
    Essentially, if its doing nothing i can knock it down and make a stud partition.

    Thanks for all help to date,
    Fats

    crumbling_wall_6.jpg crumbling_wall_5.jpg crumbling_wall_1.jpg crumbling_wall_2.jpg crumbling_wall_3.jpg crumbling_wall_4.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2014
  2. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    look at it as just another challenge Mr Fats, it's bad news if the roof blows away overnight

    it's quite hard to work out what's what, but there's certainly plenty of timber you'd surely want to be replacing showing in this image with the tape pointing at it - nothing to get stressed about, maybe a few props in sensible places, gently take the block wall out and rebuild with a sturdy studded wall

    [​IMG]
     
    FatHands likes this.
  3. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Hi Sean,
    Many thanks for posting (and all help to date).
    I am happy to do this, although did wonder if my insurer would cough up for it (because the house is being worked on and not just woke up and noticed the wall is like a banana).
    Cost wise, i guess i am looking at timber, fixings, kingpsan, plasterboard, plaster and re-tile inside the bathroom.

    Thanks
    Fats
     
  4. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    sadly unless your entire house collapses in a big pile of wood dust I doubt your insurers will be interested in helping with the costs - just all part of the fun of renovating, you can never tell what you'll find next

    unless Fats Towers is a 50 bedroom mansion set in 2000 acres, there will eventually come a day when it's all finished and paid for :)
     
    FatHands likes this.
  5. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    as i thought re insurance!

    um, its a 3-bed ex-council :) which will be paid for in about 22 years!

    This thread has been posted in good timing!

    thanks again.
    Fats
     
  6. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    22 years will soon fly past - this might help :p
     
    FatHands likes this.
  7. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    :D :p
     
  8. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    I would have thought a building defect like this wouldn't b covered by insurance. I have a problem in a Victorian house conversion where the whole back of the house is coming away from the rest of the house so I ave a big crack fnarr right through the bathroom. Anyway, it's not covered as it's a building defect, every other house in the street has the same problem.
     
    FatHands likes this.
  9. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    A neighbors' back garden dividing wall fell down in a Victorian house. The insurers said they wouldn't cover it.
     
    FatHands likes this.
  10. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Morning chaps,
    Thanks for posting. To be honest, i haven't had chance (or know where the policy documents are at the moment) although after i read Sean's post didn't think there was any point in calling them to check - and now i have just read both of yours, that pretty much confirms it!

    Onwards and upwards!

    Thanks for all your help.

    Fats
     
  11. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Morning,
    I am going to planning what i need to sort this in early new year. Sean did begin helping me with this, but it doesn't look like he is around any more, sadly.

    The joists are steel with treated timber inserted top (roughly 40mm square) and bottom.
    I will be replacing the rotten lengths. Would you use C16/C24 treated - and would it be OK for me to run the circular down them (i was wondering if this would take any strength out of it as i won't be able to get the exact size of the shelf).
     
  12. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    That joist had serious woodworm.

    Where are you at now, have you removed the rotten joist that is supporting the floor board?
     
  13. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    hi jit, i am planning on stripping it all down in the new year. it looks like some of the floor boards have been damaged/butchered to fit in.
    it is as it is in the photos at the moment. any suggestions?
     
  14. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    If that joist isn't too bad, is the joist single or doubled up?, you could leave it in and construct a separate double joist and coach bolt it through to catch the nonsupporting wall, its held up all this long.
     
  15. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    the joist is fine jit - its steel although they have used bits of timber top and bottom. this is what i need to replace on the end two. Do you think C16/24 treated will be OK if i run the circular down it to get the size i need?
     
  16. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    HI

    Is this something you have set up at present?

    Fat's Wall.jpg
     
  17. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Hi Jit,
    Thanks for posting back mate, appreciate it.

    That is what i have mate. I just found a relatively close-up photo. The timber the floor boards sits on is about 40mm square - this is what i need to replace on one of them in the bathroom. As you say, it looks like they had problems with woodworm and some stage.

    steel_joist.jpg
     
  18. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    I don't think using C16 will make any difference as it's the steel I beam that is supporting everything, unless you have brought some it will be fine to rip it down. Or just buy any off the shelf pine you could always go a bit wider if there isn't any think near that size, you will probably find 44x44mm - make sure its a nice straight piece, you could use bonding adhesive to stick to the metal.
     
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  19. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    hi jit, thanks for coming back to me mate, appreciate it.
    Good point about a straight piece - i bought a pack of six architrave the other day and they were like bananas when i unpacked them!
    I've got some C16 treated left over from another job, so considering that will be OK: i will cut out a clean, un-damaged piece and mic-up. I will then cut the new piece in to fit nice and snug and put some self tappers in through the side to retain (this is what the council did by the look of it when the house was built).

    Thanks for your help, Merry Christmas!
     

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