Just about to embark on tiling our bath/shower room (walls and floor). As usual when I do anything new I try to "research" (i.e. google) all the pitfalls which can happen. Here's one which nobody seems to mention. So: you want the wall tiles evenly spaced at 2mm grout gap. Simple - just buy and use 2mm plastic spacers. WRONG! All the tiles I have seen have the edges bevelled from front to back - wider at the back than the front - presumably so they will come out of the mould when made. This means that if you butt two tiles together, only the back edge makes contact, leaving a gap at the front face between the two tiles. It seems to me that the final width of the grout gap with spaces installed, depends on where the spacer is placed - towards the back or towards the front. In the worst case this could vary the gap between tiles by almost 1mm. Is this a valid concern or do I need to get out more?
Thanks for that Phil - Yes I can see that you need to do it that way with a "brick bond" pattern - but I was going to place my tiles so the edges and grout lines line up - so each spacer would be pushed into a corner between 4 tiles. I think I will use your method anyway as it completely overcomes my concern. I'm very grateful for the trouble you took positng that picture. Great!
Doing it how Phil suggests also eliminates the occasions where the spacer disappears in between the four corners and manages to slide under a tile before you've quite set it then preventing you from bedding it properly. Grrr.....
I use Uniplug' ProSpacer available in 2mm & 4mm version,got mine off Ebay, they aren't so fiddley to work with as the other sort & you can't loose them in the tile. http://www.suretile.co.uk/product/50-pack-uniplug-tile-spacers-with-a-difference
If you're tiling for the first time, planning is everything. Don't tile from the floor or a wall - they are probably not straight. Set a horizontal batten and then tile from that upwards, arranging as far as possible to have equal cuts to the edges and around windows. Once set, remove the batten and tile in the row or two to the floor or worktop. Occasionally you can start from a row of whole tiles, but not as often as you might think! Buy a cheap laser level with crosshairs. Best tool ever for tiling. DON'T try installing 600x600 tiles as a first tiling project! they are 5x more difficult to install than small tiles. Floors are IMHO generally easier. Don't just tile onto plasterboard in a shower. In a couple of years, the grout will have leaked a bit, the plasterboard will be mush and the tiles will fall off. Either tank and/or use a waterproof tiling board (hardie backer, tile backer). Bagged adhesive is generally much better for bathrooms than ready mixed. IMHO The cheapest diamond wheel cutter is much easier to use than the score and snap cutters. Slower, messier, but you don't have that "****" moment when the snap goes wrong. And some tiles (i.e. the ones that are solid material, rather than glazed) are IMO almost impossible to snap.
Thanks KIAB - well it looks like you use the method where the whole spacer is pressed in the gap - not like Phil's method?
Thanks for the tip Deleted member 11267 - very useful. I had assumed they would be the same dimension all round...
And another thing (I know you shouldn't start a sentence with and but hey). Work out of three boxes of tiles on the go if possible so that any variations in the tile are randomised.
I just find those spacers Phil mention fiddley to use, & if clear difficult to see,( old age creeping in) whereas orange ones are highly visable.
Thanks for that wealth of wisdom Mr. Rusty.. Taking your points in turn: I intend to dry-line the walls to get them flat and hopefully a bit squarer (Aquapanel around the shower and bath, plasterboard everywhere else with rockwool bats as insulation). Thanks for the tip on using bteens to set the first tiles - I had got that from an old "Readers Digest" (remember that?) DIY book! I have got a cheapo laser level. Wall tiles are 14" x 12" and i was going to cut them with a diamond wheel in my angle grinder if that sounds OK? (I thought I could also cut out curves for obstacles that way). Thnaks for the tip about bagged adhesive - is there a recognised reason for that? Thanks and kind regards.
Thanks WillyEckerslike - Yes - that was one of the (few) things I learnt (from the box of tiles actually!)
Bond makes no difference just set them where you like as long as there two per tile side keeping the tile square.
I've never tried it but my gut feel is that this will not work well - would you cut through onto a sacrificial surface? or try cutting an overhang over an edge?. Get a proper diamond wheel tile cutter. I have 2 and the one I use most is a cheap plasplugs with a little 4" thin wheel. If you want fancy cuts I find the easiest way is to cut in several radial cuts and then snap off the little sprigs between. However, you shouldn't be cutting round toilets and basins - lift them and tile under.
Hire a proper wet tile cutter for a weeend/week, or buy one, you'll get a far superior cleaner chip free cut. Even try an advert on your local Freegle/Freecycle for an electric tile cutter, you might be lucky.
Thanks Phil - well what I meant was - with the bond pattern you haven't got the option of inserting the spacers in the corner junction of 4 tiles. You have to have them sticking out as you showed.