Really need some urgent help! My old washing machine recently died out and we replaced it with a miele. The waste pipe and cold feed at the back was setup with limited space which allowed the previous washing machine to sit nicely without sticking to far out from under the unit. The new miele however is sticking out due to the anti flood hose, the pipe work at the bacm and it is slightly deeper... I have attached some pics of the issue. Any ideas what I can do to resolve this problem? We have already had a plumber out to create a gap to allow the anti flood hose to fit as previously the waste pipe and cold feed copper was too close to one another to fit the hose... As
Hi Chris. Could you post some more photos? (Only kidding ) Blimey, that is sticking oot... What is the main cause of the sticky-out? Is it the waste pipe, the cold feed or the power socket - or all three? And how much does it need to be moved in by - surely not as much as shown in pic 204532 - that must be around 4 inches?! There is no easy solution - either these pipes need to be re-routed, or the pipes need recessing into the wall or the W/M needs moving further to the side. (Usual practice is to have the pipes and power supply in an adjacent space or unit, so the back of the W/M is clear.) The main problem pipe is the waste as this clearly ain't going to the moved easily... Is there a stepped recess along the bottom-back of the W/M? If so, perhaps the waste pipe can be elbowed immediately it comes out of the floor and heads to the left (or right if that makes more sense) before turning into a 'trap' pipe. (But you'd also need to cater for that other pipe wot's feeding in to it. But, that pipe will still be there to some extent so will hold the machine an inch-and-a-half out from the wall. The 15mm cold supply pipe isn't an issue - that is easy to elbow to the side as soon as it comes through the floor. Ditto with the power socket - that can be moved sideways (and you should be able to have direct access to that anyways...) Any chance of rearranging the base units - swapping one with the W/M space? Or can you get access to under the floor to shifty the waste pipe to the left by about a foot...?
The main cause for it to stick out now is the hose pipe connecting to the cold feed and possibly the anti flood device although I would prefer both the waste and cold pipe to be rerouted but I don't think it is possible due to the boiler pipes on the right and a Occupied cupboard on the left.... I think a couple of inches under more, as before and we would be happy. Unfortunately there is no stepped recess at the rear of the W/M and nor is there any access to the pipes under the floor...
Thinkin out of the box a little bit...is that a plasterboard wall behind? If it is you could cut the plasterboard to gain a few inches, it's mean a bit of pipe work getting the pipes into the wall but might give you the space you need?
Yes they are plaster boards. There is also suspended floors under the tiles and we had issues with foul smells previously as there was gaps between the floor and walls. Since foaming up the gaps, the smells vanished so not sure if it would be a good idea to open up the can of worms again.
Pic 204137 - that's not the actual gap at the back, is it? I'm guessing the W/M has been pulled out a bit to show the pipework? Ok, you obviously know that the pipes either need moving or the W/M does... If the cold feed is the issue, then that is dead easy to move - as said before, an elbow as it comes out the floor taking it to the left and possibly even mounted on the side of the left-hand unit. That should keep you W/M's supply pipe well out of the way. The same could be done with the waste pipe, although it will always be ~40mm thick and in front of the back wall - so that might not help unless your W/M has a recess along the lower back - which it doesn't! So, unless you can bed that waste pipe into the back wall, or unless you can properly shift it one way or t'other, or unless you can move the W/M itself, then I can't think of any solution. Where is the sink unit? How far to the left of the W/M is it? It might not be an elegant solution, but there is no reason why a waste pipe can be run from the sink's cupboard plumbing through the adjacent base units (tight against the back panel, or even behind it with more work) and through the side of the W/M recess, with the W/M trap now fitted to the side of the unit along with the feed pipe.
Correct, Pic 204137 Shows the W/M pulled out to try and show the pipe work. I think the main issues is to do with the depth of the waste pipe (especially its bottom lip near the floor end) and the depth of the U-Bend... The sink is around 1.5M left to the Sink however the sink already has a dishwasher feed into it... I think it may be an option to make a hole in the wall but as mentioned I am worried about the foul smells possibly returning.... Ideally we could go right of the washing machine but all the boilers pipe are located there and even if there was a run made to that section I guess as the vertical pipe cannot be re-worked, it will still be an issue with its depth...
Ooookkkaaayyyy. Yep, the waste pipe is the main problem. It's not an issue that your sink's plumbing already has an appliance feeding in to it's not uncommon to have two connected in there (eg: http://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-...g - Plumbing&gclid=CKjn44aZwcUCFSLKtAodaFcAwQ ) Obviously the hose/waste would need extending to reach the sink's plumbing. 1.5m is not a huge distance, but I'm not sure what the best method would be - you can get extension washing machine hoses, but it may be best to go 'solid' from the sink's plumbing and take that through into the W/M recess and assemble a trap there against the side of that unit on the left. I'm sure one-and-a-quarter-inch pipe would suffice, and it would need to have a slight fall. The waste pipe as it comes through the floor would need cutting (or does it disconnect there?) just above the floor level and capping off, making sure final height is below the W/M base. Or, it's very likely that a flexi hose would work too - I've seen them 3m long! - and that could easily be a DIY job. Really, a very simple job for a plumber - or competent DIYer. I agree with you - I'd be reluctant to knock into the back wall, not only 'cos of the potential risk of smell, but just because it would be a bodge. I
On the left on the washing machine, is a dedicated 2 draw cupboard and on the right is the pipes to the boiler so I am not sure if I am able to run a drain run from the sink? The only path I can see for either an extension hose or drain pipe is under the units plinth (Height is approx 10"s). Will a plumber be able to cut the current black waste pipe down to ground level so its level with floor and get capped off? I am guessing even if I get rid of the waste pipe, the anti flood box will still be an issue and where would I be able to route it to?
I didn't realise that LH unit was a drawer type There is still usually enough space at the back for running pipes - often there's a 'service' void there of around 60+mm deep. By 'anti flood box', do you mean the anti-leak feed hose? If so, the 15mm pipe and valve would need elbowing to the left hand unit's side. But - another problem! The 22mm drain pipe for your boiler's condensate... Hey - you need a kitchen fitter to answer...
I am thinking if we are able to get both flexi hoses (to the waste and cold feed) to rest against the wall instead of bending into the waste plastic pipe, it may only stick out by an inch which would be far more acceptable then what it is. Just need to find a way to do this if no other way to get it right in...
Just had a plumber around (through an indirect recommendation of a staff member from JL). The plumber has suggested to take the black waste pipe all the way down to the floor level and bend it right. He will rework the condensate pipe work to join up to the new location of the waste pipe and also connect the U-Bend in that gap. The charge for the work is £120. What do you guys think about the cost and suggestion? To me it makes sense and the most logical so far?
I don't understand how a 45mm waste pipe running along the bottom of that back wall will allow the W/M to fit back further? Price? I guess the guy has to charge a minimum to cover himself, but it's £5's worth of materials tops, and an easy job.
He seemed pretty confident it will sit much better as the back panel of the WM sticks out by nearly an inch so I guess there may be half an inch over hang from the work top. He sounded very confident that it will sit all the way in though... The washing machines back panel sticks out in the middle by an inch (as shown in one of the previous pics). The black waste pipe sticks out 3inches from the wall, so I guess he will somehow cut the pipe below the floor from within the pipe and then join another pipe to it that doesn't have as big rim, as it does currently?
Hi Chris. Of course - the centre-back of the W/M does bulge out much further than the lower section (cough - that's why I asked in my very first post if there was a recess down there so's the waste pipe could be run lower...) And it does make more sense to take it to the RH side - closer to the boiler's pipe too. Will the 15mm copper supply pipe need bending gently to the left too? That would be a simple way to get the anti-leak fitting out of the way. And if the power plugtop then becomes an issue, it can always be replaced with a directly-wired FSU so sitting more flush. I think - if I were considering paying out £120 for this - I'd have the guy state very clearly just how much further in the machine is gonna go so's you can hold him to it...
Will the 15mm copper supply pipe need bending gently to the left too? - No, he will cap it off and use one of the cold feeds from the boiler. For the power, I assume I would need an electrician to make it a direct connection?
Ah - that makes sense too - use the cold feed on t'other side. As for leccy outlet, it is complicated marginally by the current socket being a double, and you'd just want that replaced with a single FSU. I don't know if they make an FSU that fits a double back box - perhaps they do. You'd need a sparky for this only if you couldn't do it yourself. I don't believe it would be against regs (PartP), but you would need to feel secure that you are up to it (but it is easy...)
(Cathup1 is well scary... ) I know - measure the existing 'sticky-outness', and then measure it again once the job is done. Pay him in direct proportion to the W/M retraction...
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