Problem with landing light

And is the red from the circuit in L1 and linked to L1 in the other switch? Likewise the black from the circuit in L2 and linked to L2 of other switch?

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Photos.

 

Alvin - how are confirming all this mate? With the continuity tester on the meter? Have you tested the switches for functionality too?

 

Alvin it is very simple. 2-way switches always confuse DIYers because they focus on colours of cables instead of where the connections go. If it was all working correctly before you touched it then look at the items you touched because you have got it wrong. You seem to be having an attitude problem with your responses as though YOU'VE done nothing wrong. Its so simple and you can't sort it out. In one of your posts you said there was two wires in each terminal in the landing switch. So what has happend to the sixth wire if you now only have five? You sound a bit of a plonker.

 

I think you need to go back to basics and look at the diagrams supplied (including mine!) and understand how two way switching works. Then disconnect all wires to the switches and turn off the mains to the lights at least and test the continuity of each wire with a long black negative lead (bell wire will do) and a 1.5 volt torch bulb and an AA battery. This will need an assistant to be at one end whilst you are at the other. When the bulb lights up on each wire mark it with paper label with a consecutive number on it at each end . If the switches are new they are extremely unlikely to be faulty. If another wire is looped in to either L1 or L2 this will be disclosed as spare in the above test. Otherwise you will not have sorted this out by Christmas.

 

Use the same bulb and battery as a power source . Connect 3 wires between L1,L2 & Comm from one switch to the other ( L1 to L1 ,L2 to L2 and Comm to Comm). .The negative on the battery goes directly to negative on the bulb. The positive on the battery goes to L1 on one of the switches and the switched live wire goes from L2 on that switch to the positive on the bulb. It would help if you had a battery holder and a bulb holder. You then should have two way switching.
As has been said photographs might have been helpful and I am surprised your electrician gave up so easily as you have said that it was working before you changed a bulb. Incidentally I can't see how changing a bulb can alter the wiring!

 

Check the switches using the multi meter, do a continuity test, switches the switch on and off should break the continuity altering the reading on the multi meter.

 

I don't know why you have a junction box. The old method of wiring lighting was I think that the single black negative wires were looped in from ceiling rose to ceiling rose as they were and still are not switched. The single red positive wires were looped in from switch to switch to L1 and a switched live taken from Comm in a 1 way switch to the ceiling rose. Modern wiring has both the positive and negative wires looped in in the ceiling rose and a single T & E cable going down to the switch , the brown being positive and the blue with a brown sleeve being the switched live. Which system does your house have?
The fact that a junction box has so lately appeared in the equation and has been wired correctly ( you believe) brings into play endless permutations that your problem may well be insoluble on a forum where everybody is at a distance with no photos and no idea what wires might have been connected to this junction box. This is a case I feel that should be left to an qualified electrician on site with a full set of test gear.

 

Look, COM is the switch pivot. COM either connects to L1 or L2 depending on switch up or switch down. Forget junction boxes and what goes where. Figure out where the connected wires are going and you will get there. There is another way of wiring a two-way where the feed is taken to COM on one switch, strappers link L1s and L2s on each switch and then the switch live goes from COM on the second switch to the light fitting. Trace the wires.

 

Put some fecking photos up!

 

Wouldn't surprise me if there's a live in the switch-live connector at the rose!

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

That would then upset all the other lights on that radial as well in some form.

 

The OP says he has changed the light fitting and both switches so its clearly installer error on any one of those three items. The number of times we see "I haven't altered anything I put the wires back exactly as they were".

 

what's the old adage about pictures and words.....