Rejuvenating decking.

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Deleted member 33931, Jan 13, 2016.

  1. Sis-in-law 's new hoosie has a fair bit of decking out t'back which is currently in good sound order but needs treating.

    I understand decking 'oil' is probably the best finish to give it as it soaks in and helps prevent cracking, unlike other stuff wot chust coats t'top?

    But, before she does that I was going to suggest soaking the whole darn thing in timber preserver - a liquid wot soaks in and actually protects it against rot, not chust stops water getting in ('cos nothing will).

    As this will take a few gallons, any recommendations as to what to use? To be applied probably using a pump-sprayer so's it gets a soaking but also can be used to saturate the end grain of the planks.

    After it's dried, the thoughts are to finish with decking oil as usual.

    Or, any better ideas?

    Thanks.
     
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Want to choose wisely, as some timber preserver has water repellent properties & a finish in their own right, & your then unable to apply any other finish like a decking oil.
     
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.
  3. Very good point - thank you.
     
  4. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    Decking is the same as treated timber and where it can get wet and dry out, should give 25 years without significant decay. Some are also waxed. Any surface applications are unlikely to go as deep as the pressure treatments. Also you won't be able to treat the underside. So its often an expensive way to satisfy the idea of doing something worthy.

    See if you can hire or borrow a karcher type cleaner and this will bring up the boards nicely, and you can see whats really there. If any show real decay then a localised treatment may be needed, or replacement.
     
  5. wiggy

    wiggy Screwfix Select

    Depending on the condition of the deck and how far you want to go with it,
    I would clean it down with owatrol prepdeck, then do any repairs/ cosmetic work, and then use a SOLVENT/OIL BASED STAIN, cuprinol, ronseal and others do it, be careful to read the tin though, the water based looks identical.

    Solvent based soaks in to the timber, whereas water based coats the surface and eventually flakes/scratches off.
    I tend to use a creosote substitute for framework and a better quality cuprinol/ronseal for the decking.
    You could experiment mixing some decking oil in to the solvent based stain.

    As for application, spraying is messy and the mist covers everything, plants, windows, grass and you.
    A roller can be good for large areas if your decking is smooth side up, but you still need to get between the gap with a brush.
    A couple of good brushes at different sizes is the easiest way, or a mixture of a roller, and brush, and a sprayer to get any visible subframe, rags can be handy for staining any spindles or hard to get to areas.
     
    GoodwithWood and FatHands like this.
  6. Excellent stuff, folks.

    DW, I wish that were the case - I've seen decking which is under 10 years old which has significant areas of rot - I'm talkin' sections of decking crumbling away. Ok, this decking was not retreated regularly, but neither was it allowed to have any build-up which would keep it damp - it was always kept clean. And the rot is in different sections with no logic to it. Perhaps chust poor quality decking...?

    I've already PWed this decking and it's in really good order - hence me wanting to keep it that way. I've been looking at preservation treatments and have found claims that water-based 'micro-emulsion' preservers will penetrate more than solvent-based stuff, which sounds promising (if unlikely?).

    The other good thing about the 'microemulsion' stuff is that it has zero smell and is almost pleasant to use, so a low-aimed sprayer should be able to get it all soaking, especially end grains, without too much worry about the consequences of over-spray.

    Wiggy, a brush would be used application - I agree that spray here would be too messy and uneven.

    I think there's crawling access to the underside, so will probably suggest a good emulsion spray under there too.

    And creosote-substitute for the posts sounds good.

    In any case, it'll have to wait until summer...

    Thanks all.
     
  7. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Deleted member 33931 likes this.
  8. parahandy

    parahandy Screwfix Select

    I probably did it wrong, but I gave mine 4 coats of oil and let that dry out for a week or 3 then gave it a couple of coats of our host's no nonsense decking sealant. It's reet stinky stuff but seems very effective.

    Having installed the decking absolutely level the problem I have now is that when it rains the water just sits in lovely big bead clusters.
     
  9. Which look very nice :)
     
  10. parahandy

    parahandy Screwfix Select

    It looks gorgeous in the moonlight I must admit, but I wouldn't recommend it if you've got OCD.

    I've had to buy a big swimming pool type squeegee to disperse all the gorgeousness :(
     
  11. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Decking finish is really tricky, too little protection it deteriorates too much and its more slippery than ice when wet
     
  12. You squeegee your deck?!

    Not so much OCD as anal, then... :p
     
  13. Before I PWed it recently, it was unbelievably slippery. It barely had any visible gunge on it, but jeez it was almost impossible to walk on.
     
  14. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Anyway, and more importantly...which way up should decking be laid? :rolleyes: :confused: :D
     
  15. Depends on which side you want to walk...
     
  16. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Right side up ;);)
     
  17. parahandy

    parahandy Screwfix Select

    It's amazing how many people still install it upside down :rolleyes:
     

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