I've got a parapet wall above my garage doors and many of the bricks are frost damaged. I'd like to remove the outer face, leaving the inner face intact so I can just rebuild the outer face in new bricks. How can I do this safely without dislodging the bricks on the inner face, loosening the mortar beds and generally making it unstable. I'm concerned that hammer blows on the outer face will dislodge bricks on the inner face at the same time. I've got an SDS, 4.5" grinder and hammer/bolster.
Just rake out the mortar joints with the grinder & a mortar rake, if mortar soft, I would use disc for harder mortar, your grinder should nearly have enough depth of cut, as brick ony 65mm width, so a gentle tap should dislodge them, doesn't matter if you damage bricks, as your replacing them. http://www.screwfix.com/p/mortar-rake-8-x-40mm/31307 http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-segmented-diamond-blade-115-x-22-23mm/92606
You will not be able to do that if it is 9" brickwork. If you cut off all the headers there will be nothing tying the brickwork together. Take it all down and rebuild in whatever bond it is at the moment.
Valid point, all depends on the lintel used above garage door, & I just noticed I have dropped a clanger brick width is 100mm, NOT 65mm, too early for me, need more coffee. So, disregard my link for mortar rake.
It's all laid in stretcher bond so there are no headers. Also near in mind it will only be a single skin for a short time, a new skin will be put up after
It's ok for a 9" wall to be built stretcher bond isn't it? Must it have ties? When I build the second skin back up should I drill some ties into the innner skin. I really don't want the whole parapet to come tumbling down onto my car
Easy job, but for the sake of 6/7 courses on the front and 4/5 on the back, I'd take it all down and rebuild it, its not like the brick is an expensive one, just a LBC Heather.
Surprised there are no copings. You will also need a acrow to support that roof truss by consumer unit, while you rebuild wall.
You might be right, but until you start removing the bricks you don't know you will find, the front course might not even be tied in.
I'd just removed the coping before I took the photos. The front course isn't even on a lintel I've just found out, just built of the timber frame of the garage doors.
Becoming a bigger job, I would look to fit a lintel over garage door, even consider a IG I beam to support the load, despite having the rsj supporting inside course. EDIT: The soldier course over garage door are they a full size brick, have seen where they only use a half brick for the soldier course.
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