Brother has two bald tyres and no key to remove his wheels in order to change.Have tried a wheel garage but they were unable to budge with air guns.Just removing the standard studs bent my wheel spider and snapped a 17mm socket.The lock nuts have a centre round raised pin about 10mm in dia standing 10mm proud of four shallow holes around at erregular intervals.Garage hammered socket onto pin but its so small does not offer enough purchase to remove.
nigel Posts: 853 Registered: Nov 14, 2003 Re: Your job Posted: Sep 12, 2006 3:59 PM Reply Qualified as a Chef, but let the wife do the cooking. Thats the kind of answer you expect from a chef! Engineers forum Huh !! Jack of all master of bu gg er all. I REST MY CASE !!!
bryte force with a hammer and drift, try punching the locking nuts undone via the holes. if not, try welding a nut onto the stud part of the nut.
I had the same trouble,what i done was got a special socket with grooves in it. when you undo the nut it tightens, You can get them from halfords
Option 1: drift and a hammer(as above) Try and get some heat into it with a blowtorch, sometimes helps to crack the nut. You will damage the wheel. Option 2 weld a nut on (as above)You will boil up the grease in the bearing and 100 miles later the grinding noise will warn you that you are due another bill. Option 3 very expensive SnapOn or similar locking wheel removal kit (as above) They will probably work but it would have been cheaper to buy a new car. Option 4 write off the wheel and set to with an angle grinder. This is a horrible situation to be in. You have to bite the bullet and accept that this will take some time and will muller the nut and probably the wheel as well. Bin there, done that. Good luck.
Cannot access with drift or weld, the nuts are recessed about 50 mm and low profile so rim also prevents access, will need to get all four wheels done eventually so angle grinder is expensive solution.I think the garage tried the SnapOn solution but just chewed the tip of the nut.May try a local wheel place who specialise in this sort of problem.
this one crops up quite a lot. the first best bet is a special socket (as mentioned above?) which has a l/h tapered thread inside - you will need to know what size to use. the socket simply tightens onto head of locking bolt, and when tight enough (hopefully) removes bolt. trident tools do one but you may now find one in halfords as suggested above. next is weddling a nut OR bolt to it, you say this is impossible due to depth of recess failling those two, drill it out. it is hard, but not impossible. are they nuts or bolts?? i would suggest a 3mm pilot hole drilled at approx 1500 rpm followed by a 13 or 15mm drill (depending on thread dia - will be 12 or 14mm) at approx 400 rpm. it ought to go without saying BUT always do your very best to get that pilot hole central and true - otherwise it will become impossible. hss bits are ok, make sure they are properly sharpened and watch for overheating (drilling too fast usually). cobalt drills are even better, but pricey for a 15mm one! dont bother trying to punch it out - pi55ing in the wind. i have personally done all of the above on many occasions so consider this professional advice
btw snap on sell an impact type tool which relies on bite on the end of nut/bolt, this is not nearly as effective as the l/h threaded tapered socket.
You could always try parking the car in an unlit corner of a dodgy pub car park, and over a pint, let a couple of the 'good old boys' know you are looking for a set of wheel rims... They'll be off in about 10 minutes. And all you will have to do is buy your own wheels back, re-fit them before the car falls off the bricks and drive home Seriously though, Could you 'dutch key' a larger nut over the locking nuts?
have you tried one of these sockets ? http://www.metrinch-tools.com/website/produkten.php?subnr=2&subcat=CAT4 on a 600mm breaker bar ? they drive the edges of a nut, not the corners. Also would be worth heating first as the heat of the socket may expand the nut slightly.
maybe somethnig like this ? http://www.difflock.com/buyersguide/tools/locking_wheelnutremover.shtml or this ? http://www.toolsinstock.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=13286 Other than that I'd be getting the hacksaw to the wheel.
Could you get a short length of steel tube over it and weld inside then extend the pipe with further welding ? Only a suggestion though. Something must be possible.....
That's a bludy good idea, diyhopeful. A short length of tube that fits snugly around the nut and protrudes an inch or so out from the wheel, with a hole drilled throught the side to take a bar after it's been tack-welded in place. Should be easy to get a weld rod in there - 2 or 3 zaps should hold the tube wall to the nut and also cause the nut to expand, whilst the wheel itself is protected by the tube.
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