Replaced bulb with LED....now it flashes when OFF?

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by jimwillsher, Dec 4, 2012.

  1. jimwillsher

    jimwillsher Member

    Hi all

    I've just replaced some bulbs with some 240v LEDs. Curiously, the LED at the top of the stairs now flashes every 3-4 seconds - when switched OFF. The light has a two-way switch at the top of the stairs and a two-way switch at the bottom. The feed comes to the top switch, loops down via a brown/grey/black cable to the bottom (black/grey feed down, brown is the return) and then into the light. The cabling *looks* correct in my limited experience.

    I've put a meter across, and with the light switched OFF, there's around 12v in the cable. If I toggle both switches so the light is off again, there's 30v-38v in the cable, and this is enough to trigger the light flickering.

    It's not the bulb, as I've swapped it with other LEDs, and I've also used a CFL and it flashes too.

    I guess the  ~ 38v is enough to provide buildup in a capacitor in the bulb and it then discharges. But where could that 38v be coming from? I've no easy way to follow the cable run as it's in the ceiling above the stairs.

    Confused.com.

    Many thanks




    Jim

    PS Yes I've googled to death and still can't find any hint of a solution. It does seem to be more of a problem with two-way switching though.
     
  2. wally

    wally Screwfix Select

    Hi, not uncommon to get that voltage on cables especially with paralell runs on 2 way circuits (induced current).   There are at least 2 ways to wire 2 way circuit, 1 might be better than the other to minimise this.  It all depends how it has been wired to know if eighter method could be used by altering the cables within the switches.    If at 1 switch you have a 3 core +e on its own in the switch & at the other end if you have the same 3 core +e plus a twin + e for that switch only then the alteration can be done (ensure none of these cables go to another side of the switch if a 2 gang type.
    http://www.diynot.com/wiki/_detail/electrics:lighting:two_way_lighting:2way_scheme_v2.jpg?id=electrics%3Alighting%3Atwo_way_lighting
     
  3. jimwillsher

    jimwillsher Member

    Many thanks for the reply wally.

    At the switch upstairs, where the light is, there's 2 core + e feed, a 3 core + e to the downstairs switch, and the 2 core + e for the light itself (single bulb).

    At the switch downstairs it's spaghetti, as it's a 3-gang. I've switched off the fuse for the downstairs lights but it still flashes, so I'm not sure the induced current is being introduced at the switch.

    Does that muddy any waters?


    Jim
     
  4. spinlondon

    spinlondon Screwfix Select

    Induced current is charging the capacitor.
    When the capacitor is full, it discharges, releasing the stored current causing the lamp to be lit momentarily.
    As long as the flashes are not to frequent (i.e. not more than one flash every 10 seconds), there is a fix.
    If the induced current is to great, the lamp will flash more frequently (i.e. once every second).
    You need to either sort out the wiring so that there is no induced current, or wire a 240K? resistor between the Line and Neutral at the fitting.
    This will allow the current to bypass the capacitor, stopping it from charging up.
     
  5. jimwillsher

    jimwillsher Member

    Many thanks spinlondon.

    Sorting the wiring probably isn't practical, it's 10 feet above me in the plasterboarded stairs ceiling. The flash is evey 3-4 seconds; does that rule out the resistor option?

    Jim
     
  6. jimwillsher

    jimwillsher Member

    Ok what I've found is the effect is much worse on the black cable than on the grey cable. Looking at the cables in the outer sheath they are grey, then earth, then black, then brown, so black and brown are beside each other in the sheath.

    I've now swapped black and grey at both switches. When both switches are in the up position (e.g. off) the live wire is the grey which is furthest from brown....and the problem appears to have gone away! At least, no flashes in the last two minutes anyway. Voltage across the contacts is 12v (can't measure the current accurately on my cheapo meter).

    Time will tell. If it persists I might end up trying to run a new cable the length of the stairs in the ceiling :eek:



    Jim
     
  7. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    There is a quick fix just replace one of the LEDs with an ordinary halogen lamp.

    Regards
     
  8. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Just be careful to realise that pulling the fuse on the dowstairs lights DOESN'T automatically mean that the hall light/switch isn't still live!

    Just saying.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  9. jimwillsher

    jimwillsher Member

    Thanks. I always check a circuit with TWO electrical screwdrivers whilst the circuit is ON, ensuring both glow, then re-check with the same two when the circuit is off to make sure they don't glow. I also check all the pins in the socket in case there's a mix of circuits, as there is in the downstairs 3-gang light as it controls the hall lights and the landing light.

    Jim
     
  10. jimwillsher

    jimwillsher Member

    To add closure to my original question. I have just got round to fitting one of these:

    http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rc-network-capacitors/2067869/

    Specifically, PMR209MB5470M100

    as recommended in post #8 on this page:

    http://www.electriciansforums.co.uk/electrical-forum-general-electrical-forum/63685-flickering-cfl-lamps.html

    and it has cured the problem. I can now have the light off in either position (both switches up, both switches down) and the nlight is not flickering.

    I have managed to fit the capacitor/restistor inside the junction box that's used to connect the ceiling light to the cable, so it's self-contained and insulated.

    Many thanks all.


    Jim
     
  11. spinlondon

    spinlondon Screwfix Select

    Only 100?, is there an RCD on the circuit?
     
  12. Lokkars Daisy

    Lokkars Daisy New Member

    It is a resistor and capacitor in series, and it is fitted across the lamp , in effect by passing the small induced current .
    A 1M resistor within the light switch L to E would maybe also do the job
     
  13. spinlondon

    spinlondon Screwfix Select

    1M? is a bit different from 100?.
    My concern is that if the resistance is too low, the RCD might see it and trip.
     
  14. Lokkars Daisy

    Lokkars Daisy New Member

    1M to earth or even across l-n       In the 'snubber' package described in other post there is a 100 ohm resistor in series with a capacitor  , the capacitor will limit the current to a safe level 
     
  15. J.P.

    J.P. New Member

    Snubber
     
  16. Lokkars Daisy

    Lokkars Daisy New Member

  17. jimwillsher

    jimwillsher Member

    There is an RCD, yes, in the CU, but so far the two are playing together nicely.

    Jim
     
  18. J.P.

    J.P. New Member

  19. Lokkars Daisy

    Lokkars Daisy New Member

  20. oishiken

    oishiken New Member

    Hi Jim, I have ordered the component (Capacitor) online, but I am unsure how I am going connect it. Should it be connected between the two lines to the lamp, or on one of the lines?
    A)
    -----}-----
    -----}-----

    B)
    -----}}----
    -----------

    Best regards
    Ken
     

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