Replacing 22mm Gate valve

Hi steve,

If the only problem is a siezed valve then yes you should be able to use the existing olives.

With regards pte tape / jointing compound. Yes this can be used but you wrap tape/apply jointing compound to the OLIVE not the threads and as you will beusing the existing nuts & olives then I recommend using either one of them.

Rico

 

Also check that the new valve housing si same depth as existing otherwise you could have a problem using existing olives

 

ceased ?


S E I Z E D !

 

I have bought a 22mm Pegler valve from Screwfix which has exactly the same length (compression nut to compression nut face) as the existing valve.

Do I need to remove the olives of the old ceased up valve or can I just leave the existing compression nuts and olives in place and just slot in the new valve?

There is one proviso to this and that is if the valve and pipework is very old it may be imperial. If this is the case the old nuts won't fit on the new valve and you will to use the new nuts with 3/4" olives. (B&Q do them)

If the old valve says 22(mm) on it somewhere then fine, it will swap over. If 22 isn't there and the old nuts are thicker than the new ones and the sides of the nuts are all square with no curved bit at one end then the chances are they are imperial.

 

Often the gate valve spindle snaps and the gate stays shut. It would be better to replace it with a full bore 1/4tr turn valve but you have bought your new gate valve ( which will seize again one day ) now so just carry on.

 

I have never found an old 22mm thread that is not compatible with new. Without looking it up the difference in BS number may be that the new one is slightly different material to resist de-zincification.

 

Usually the threads are the same but not always. look at them closely and try fitting the new nuts to the old valve as well as the new valve to the old nuts as sometimes the old nuts fit loosely to a new valve. if there is any doubt fit the complete new valve.
pete

 

Just a suggestion seeing as you are Diyer,you know it is 22mm so buy a 22mm compression slip socket cut out the valve completly.Fit new valve,fit slip socket job done.

 

From the op's first post to the last an hour elapsed and he's moaning about wasting time running back and forth.
Forget the toolbox talk and fit the valve already ***.

 

Haven't moaned about anything...
I would have fit the valve already only its 200 miles
away in Wales...just trying to anticipate potential
problems!

Is your Welsh property in the Swansea valley?
PTP

 

*** ...if a cc,cc,,wdecc,bbcccrtcc ask 's us a question we give them 3 page of abuse 1st ! some diy'er ask a stupid qeustion and it goes down the route of slip couplers jesus fella's get a grip...



IF ITS SIEZED GET A PLUMBER!

 

I've just got caught with this. I wanted to replace a stopcock which just about works but needs a lot of strength to shut fully, the main problem being the stopcock is hidden behind a shower. I had previously made an extension tool to make the valve accessible but as it is obviously unreliable and unsuitable for anyone without a lot of brute strength to use I decided to bypass it with a new fullbore ballvalve in a more accessible location. After a lot of grief I finally had one connection left to join my new plumbing up with the old system using a 22mm compression union which I could just about reach. The nightmare began when I found that the thread on the union (marked BS864-2 ) has a much finer thread than the standard fittings that we use these days. I can't reach the other end of the union and if I try and back it off with a box spanner there is a danger of backing off something further down the line which is out of reach. Having had to totally disassemble everything I am going to have to use the original nut off the union and hope that it works with a modern (copper) olive as the original olive is no longer usable.