Resin for Sloppy Spindles?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by GoodwithWood, Dec 26, 2016.

  1. GoodwithWood

    GoodwithWood Active Member

    I was asked to look at a handrail and spindles in a period house that has some sideways play in. Over the years, with probably lots of children sliding down the lower 8 feet run, the spindles have worn their sockets. Also, the newel post has worked loose. I don't really want to disassemble this entire section if I can help it (due to time/cost considerations) so I was thinking of possibly injecting a resin into the socket to lock the bottom of the spindles in place (once I have taken care of the Newel post). The connection with the top of the spindles and handrail is sound.

    Has anyone used a resin for a similar application? If so was it effective?

    I know if I have to take the spindles out it is going to end up with having to have copies turned as, although there is no play where the spindles meet the handrail, they are pinned in place and there is not much meat there to connect to so I would prefer not to disturb them.

    Your thoughts, suggestions most welcome.
     
  2. ramseyman

    ramseyman Screwfix Select

    You could try squirting some polyurethane glue, screwfix 40778, if the gaps are wide enough to allow that. The benefit of polyurethane is it expands on curing to fill any gaps, a bit like foam and can be cut away with a chisel afterwards. Don't be too heavy handed with it, try one first to get the hang of how much. I've used this very successfully to secure chair legs and spindles where the joints are worn, but as said you do need enough space to inject it.
     
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  3. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    I've done it in the past, drill a 4mm - 5mm hole & inject glue into the joint,easy to hide the hole.
    again 20 & 16 gauge blunt despensing needles are hard to find here, they were idea for for glue.
    With the newel post you can drill a hole & then use a long screw to pull everything up tight.
    This was good, but difficult to get over here now

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/WoodRiver-Disposable-Glue-Syringes-pieces/dp/B0035Y5PIK
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
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  4. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    While PU glue will expand, the expansion isn't very structural - it's a foam. As KIAB says, syringes are good. I would buy some ordinary small-size syringes (or you might have some laying around if you are that way inclined :p:p:eek::eek:. Use an epoxy like araldite or similar, drill a small hole across the joint and squirt in epoxy. - it flows better if warmed up.

    loads of people selling blunt needles and syringes on the 'bay - seems the vapers use them to refill cartridges. Personally, don't think you need a needle. Just sharpen the syringe end slightly.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
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  5. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    If you can, drill a small hole from either size, as it's easier for the glue to get all around the joint.
     
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  6. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Is there room to slip some timber wedges in, glue and then trim flat ?
     
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  7. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
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  8. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    I would suggest Gorilla Glue: 54593 or 51887

    Have used it many time in gap filling applications and once it has expanded and cure, it is solid.

    Maybe adding some small wedges as you go?
     
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  9. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

  10. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

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  11. GoodwithWood

    GoodwithWood Active Member

    Thanks guys. I discounted polyurethane glue (including Gorilla) as it foams trapping air which means it is not solid so can compress under load and as the handrail is getting on for a metre away from the socket there is a lot of leverage available.

    My intention was to drill a small access hole on the two sides of the socket that had become compressed and fill the void using a suitable needle or fine applicator nozzle so it's heartening to know I'm not the first to do this and it is a sensible solution. The stairs are painted so no problem disguising the drill holes afterwards.

    I was also thinking of installing some brass 'buttons' or 'nodules' into the handrail to discourage further abuse (the building is a hall of residence).

    Some great links too. Thanks again for the advice.

    Any resin recommendations?
     
  12. GoodwithWood

    GoodwithWood Active Member

    No room for wedges as the bottom of the spindle completely covers the socket (basically a mortice and tenon joint).
     
  13. GoodwithWood

    GoodwithWood Active Member

    Looks ideal as it goes off quickly so won't just run out of any cavity below the socket. Would need enough for about 20 spindles. I think I will get a pack or two and see how well it performs and how much resin the socket takes. If it takes 15 tubes it is still a cheap fix.
     
  14. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Look at epoxy glue for boat building, quite a range available, like Resorcinol Formaldehyde or RF glue, it's a strucal glue, most bot building adhesives are available in larger sizes.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
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  15. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    stixall?
     
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  16. GoodwithWood

    GoodwithWood Active Member

    Will do.

    Wash your mouth out. It's Christmas!
     
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  17. BMC2000

    BMC2000 Screwfix Select

    GoodwithWood likes this.
  18. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

  19. GoodwithWood

    GoodwithWood Active Member

    Does the gel foam like normal PU? If so it probably has the same compression issues.
     
  20. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Dynamite might be your best bet?
     

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