Ok today I went to fit a 3" lock in a door, I had bought all the gear to do the job - simple, so I thought ... Bought: http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb380rou-2100w-router-230-240v/81664 It is a 1/4" & 1/2" capable 2100W Plunge Router with 16 and 30mm bushes included. (the screws holding the bushing were very slightly proud on one side - not so good) I also bought this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/Router+Jigs/sd220/Lock+Jig/p57391 It is a lock jig, which the instructions tell you requires a 16mm guide bush used with a 12.7mm straight cutter ... First question: the 1/2" Straight cutter wont fit through the Routers 16mm Bushing hole (see image below) ?? Second question: how to do you get the 3" depth - I am advised to use a 1/2" cutter for deep cutting - but cant see available and 1/2"'ers deeper that 63mm. This is the cutter bought for the job - but wouldn't fit ... http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-router-cutter-shank-12-7-x-63mm/39994 and was advised by the manufacturer of the jig to use a 'Auger Bit' to get below the 63mm to the 3" (76mm or so): http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-router-cutter-shank-12-7-x-63mm/39994 But I think the 6mm would be long enough anyway (didn't open the packet to find out) The opening on the included bushing is just under 12mm, so where do you buy router bits that are 76mm long and the cutting blades fit through this 12mm - I have looked at other suppliers - and cant see anything. Or is the bushing wrong ??
Firstly your bush is too small!!! A 1/2" cutter will easily fit through a 16mm bush. Once you e got that sorted, go as deep as you can with your bit, then finish off with an auger or spade bit. Make sure you plunge in stages, before trying to router out around the jig. If you don't, you'll burn your cutter out. If you're fitting 1/2 hour fire doors, you'll find the core very soft and easy to drill out once you've done your routing. I do these quite regularly and once you get the method sorted, you'll be fitting sash locksin 5 mins
Thanks CGN. Is that a 1/2" cutter with a 1/2" cutting width ? So it should all have worked, so why wont the Erbauer 1/2" bit it fit through the supplied Erbauer* 16mm bush ! should I buy a bush with a thinner wall then. * a quality German made product ?
It says 16mm Bush on the box and is included with the router, it measures 16mm outside diameter, and just under 12mm on the inside .... a half inch Straight cutter that had a cutting width of say 10mm would make sense - dont understand how they cant supply me a half inch cutter to work with their bush. Agreed, party ...German ?? ... Its like that range of quality made ovens you could buy in MFI with 'Bau' in the name - maybe someone should rename their tools ScheißeStößel ... or s**tPlunger translated ... Of all the cheap imitation tools - Erbauer so far seemed the best to me though - at least half that of a makita or bosch, saying that the screws holding on the Bush on this particular tool - one of them is slightly proud - whats the point of that ... that small feature lets down the rest of the tool down, thats not so bad ... tried the Titan version at half the cost again - but that was bad!
A 16mm guide bush usually has a outside diameter of 16mm, & internal hole diameter of 13mm, so a a 1/2" shank 12.7mm straight should fit though it. But there are bush that are about 15.8mm outside diameter,pretending to be 16mm bush, they have a internal hole is less than 13mm.
It definitely uses a 16mm guide bush used with a 12.7mm straight cutter, instructions here: http://unikainnovation.co.uk/images/MSDS_Feaures/lockJIG_compact_FS.pdf
I'm constantly amazed to see posts on here of people moaning about how bad their really cheap and nasty power tools are.
I realise this thread is about routing out lock mortices but I have a question: Does anybody still use auger drills and chisels to cut holes for locks? i'll get my coat...
Yep, no point having all the gear if you've only got a couple to do. When I'm doing rental properties, specifically hmo's, usually have to fit a shed load of 1/2 hour fire doors, so anything to ease the pain really
Flat bit and a chisel if there's less than about 4 to do, humping the gear takes more time than the time saved.
For a decent door you can use either. But for something thin and cheap, the router is often a safer bet. On the chance that there is a knot right where the lock needs to go. Plus if you hack out too much of the mortice there's nought left to fix the screws to; when it comes to the handles and escuthceon plates etc.
You should have used the Souber DBB mortiser. Axminster sell it for £129. Just need a drill to power it.
Yes you can do a mortise 170mm deep with the long extension. The plunging cutter would probably be better for the deeper mortises.
I still use auger bits with power tools without an anti jamming mechanism. I augers don't snag as much as flat bits and a can get a variety if lengths from really long ones to some stubby's which are very useful. I mostly use the Irwin "Blue" augers for normal use which are very efficient
Souber DBB mortiser looks the biz. Completely frustrated with the Erbauer router, I packed it away and put hinges on with a hammer and chisel (I needed the door up temp), I still have to do the lock, and as its a FD I am concerned doing it with hammer and chisel - that I will chisel out too much, its a Jeld Wen FD30 door: http://www.fastrackcad.co.uk/download_NoAdds.asp?m=1&id=95|Database/CAD/Jeld-Wen/03$INTERNAL DOORS/03$REAL WOOD OVER-VENEER FIRE DOORS/03$BEECH/05$762 x 1981mm/26BCHOVF.PDF On a side issue, the lining has a 15mm wide recess for the intumiscent strip, 15mm in from the edge of the lining, the plate of the hinge is 20mm, so it over hangs the intumiscent strip by 5mm or more - which looks a bit odd, can anyone advise. This assumes the back of the doors face is flush with the edge of the lining.
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