Sealing compression fittings

Either use nothing or a smear of LSX on the olive.

 

If you are a DIYer, don't do it or I'll start the abuse?
You asked 4it

 

I like to use ptfe, I tighten the nut then  undue it checking the olive is in the correct place then ptfe around the olive about 6 times, Gives a good seal every time, also think you can feel it bite easyer .

 

only use boss white on heating, its not suitable for domestic water,

 

paste don't need a setting time, turn straight on, full bore lever good,  palava.........LOS, ( load of *

Message was edited by: Screwfix Moderator

 

You asked 4it Dave
4get the bows whyte.  tompums says only use on gas.
Besides, PTFE is cheaper (someone has told you to use it already), so why bover wiv boss whyte?
Use the full bore valves if you must, but make sure its not in a most visited location (kitchen cupboard wiv pots & plates) as her in there will 'knock' it to off position then moan that there is no water in da haws???
Also fit it the right way round
Once I've had my drink, I'll give you some lip

 

I was wondering why grandma was taking so long to make an appearance?
Haw is da frog Lucinda?   RU wearing it 2day?  If  you are, I'll talk to you in the Sports Forum

 

Do not use boss white. Do not use ptfe. Use LSX or similar jointing compound or my preference -  nothing.

 

there is i think a potable version of boss white?!

 

Hi. I have just struggled to get registered here to answer your question. Think of this logically. You push a bit of pipe into a fitting, tighten the nut, compress the olive on the pipe, then expect the olive to seal in it's seat. It can't because it's already in as far as it can go. Now you have to cut off the pipe below the olive so that next time you tighten the nut there is room to draw the two mating faces together. What you do next time is push the pipe in, then withdraw it a few millimetres before you tighten the nut. Anyone who tells you any different has been taught by a sealant company. Use a bit of grease or Vaseline for ease of operation. Otherwise the fitting should be completely clean and free of any sealant or PTFE tape which is a sure sign of a botch!

 

A quick wipe of jointing compound doesn't hurt, especially with chrome fittings.

 

Jet-Lube V-2 plus.
Suitable for mains gas, compressed air, oils, fuels, refrigerants and most other liquid and gaseous chemicals. And WRAS approved for use on potable water.

 

No

No jointing compound should be used on a compression fitting. The male and female tapered faces should not have anything between them, otherwise the seal is assisted and compromised by foreign and unnecessary material. You need to remove anything which prevents the faces mating. Like the excessive stub below the olive, the sealing compound, the tape, cement, chewing gum or any other rediculous botch you may have at hand. Just make sure you do not have excess stub below the olive and the tapers will mate and seal. Simple.

 

They can leak without it. My plumber used it on two compression fittings that were embedded in the screed.
I've noticed they are not leaking.
To do a pressure test would be difficult. Its belt and braces and I think some manufacturers advocate certain sealants.

I know you'll have done several million compression joints without any leaks and no paste used. You might be in line for a medal. Though most of them were given out in WW2.

 

They can leak without it. My plumber used it on two compression fittings that were embedded in the screed.
I've noticed they are not leaking.
To do a pressure test would be difficult. Its belt and braces and I think some manufacturers advocate certain sealants.

I know you'll have done several million compression joints without any leaks and no paste used. You might be in line for a medal. Though most of them were given out in WW2.