http://pro.grohe.com/uk/5494/bathro...roduct=38526-D024&color=000&material=38526000 Might be what you need - it is the lower version. You may well be able to use your own button on it or a small Grohe one. Call Groe Technical - great helpline. There are also other lower cost brands too. You then need to find a wall hung WC from the range you have.
Something like this would probably do the trick... https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/premier-standard-wall-hung-wc-frame-s4whf Its a shame the previous close coupled toilet has left horrible rusty colored indents on the rubber vinyl floor.
Frame only would do ... you need to get one that is short enough to stay within the cabinet. The Grohe 820 high version may do. It does look as though a frame hung WC will normally have the outlet around 220 above FFL so you may just need a few extra mm.
That's a nice unit, McCamp. So, that rules out getting a 'normal' pan with a higher outlet... I guess your options are - find a wall-hung pan that you can fit on to this unit ? That sounds like a good plan. The only other way I can think of is to make a platform for the whole unit - make it in to a real 'throne' . It would require a spacious bathroom to allow this platform to reach at least 2' in front of the pan without it being a tripping hazard for other areas, and you'd have to be confident it would work as an actual feature and not as a bodge. An en-suite in ma hoosie had this raised section when I moved in to cover the pipes going to the bath and the basin (concrete floor underneath) so I kept it when I refurbed rather than start making channels. I quite liked it for the bath, but not sure the same would apply for the loo?
BUT, the raise the pan 40mm test should be done first. Don't go to any trouble to sort the problem until you know the cause.
Annoyingly, all the furniture is screwed together and to the wall, with pipe lengths cut to correct size. So the 'test', at least for an amateur like me, is a little more effort than I would like. But I still plan to do it this weekend... To save removing furniture off walls, I plan to disconnect the offset connector and move the toilet away from the furniture for easy access, then raise it 40mm and reconnect using a flexi pipe (just so I can play with the height of the pan a little during the test. I won't bother connecting the cistern up as I would need to cut that pipe shorter which I don't want to do. Instead I'll just pour a 7 litre bucket of water down the pan and hope for the best. With the flexi pipe in place I'll try a few other heights out. If that works, I know what the problem is. If it doesn't, I have to assume the pipe is blocked. What tool do I need to unblock a 110mm pipe? It would need to be able to go around 2 x 90 degree bends which exist a on the 8m run, and I would imagine would be the likely location of any blockages if there are any.
Would something like this be worth trying first, just to make sure the 8m run doesn't have a block in it? What I failed to mention originally is this 'chicane' in the 8m run. It sits between the toilet and the utility sink and is made from 2 90 degree bends. http://www.screwfix.com/p/drain-unblocker/11325
Since it's been like this since installation, it's unlikely to be a blockage. (Although, perversely, a slow-running system is more likely to block...) Really, this length of soil pipe - especially with two bends in it - should have had adequate access points/rodding eyes - installed too. Eg, these elbows should be swept tees so that the other end can be accessed to shove a proper unblocking tool down there. If you did ever get a blockage, I don't see that tool doing much - it's really for much narrower waste pipe. Is all the soil pipe boxed in and hidden? Can you get to the elbows should you need to? Anyhoo, let's assume it's simply the wrong height of inlet and go from there...
I have relatively good access to the bends as they are in the back of our boiler cupboard, although no access holes exist. I'll post an update over the weekend as to how the test goes, I might even try tonight.
Missed the link to the Victoria Plumb frame - yes that should do it, the only concern is lack of fixings at the top to give vertical rigidity. The Grohe have fixing bars so screw to a wall. If you go that way then just check that the waste centreline is at 220. Also look at the BauHaus version - https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/bauhaus-low-height-wall-hung-wc-support-frame a little more expensive but it has top fixings. Do the tests first - is the front of the WC cabinet removable?
I've just realized, with a wall hung pan the cut out on the front panel of the unit will show below where it is hung :-( I knew there was a reason I should have cut out only a hole for the waste pipe and not much bigger, but the installation instructions recommended doing it this way so you could remove the panel without completely disconnecting the toilet. Still, I'll do the tests and report back. Thanks for all the help this far.
Don't worry about the hole! If the height is the problem and wall hanging solves it, then get a new panel direct from the suppliers. The company I have bought mine from are currently making me two non-standard panels/doors at a sensible cost.
not knowing how the toliet is installed can you not just remove the water supply put the toilet on a box made up by yourself to say 50mm so the toilet soil outlet is at the same hight as the existing soil pipe use a slip coller and extra bit of pipe with a normal 90 degree pan connector so the toilet is set up as normal but just on a box to add the hight you dont even have to connect up the water just to try it you can take the top off the toilet add water from a bucket to the line add flush once add water again and this time should show if this has fixed the problem if it has just build a soild platform under the toilet that you stand on and rest your feet on as your using the toilet you will just have a small step before the toilet in the bath room
Yes, I have just done the test. Fairly conclusive... its the height. I raised it up 80mm, and the flush is near instant. So now I have to either build a platform, or swap out to a wall hung toilet. Neither are straight forward... the floor is a seamless piece of vinyl so a proper platform would need me to redo the whole floor. But if I go wall hung, the vinyl beneath where the previous toilet and now this one have been has left permanent marks and 4 screw holes! What I was thinking was to build it up the 40mm on a DIY plinth, made to measure, then go around the outside with some flexible skirting or something that goes all the way around the base of the toilet, hiding the gap. Anyone know of any material that could hide this DIY platform and not look out of place?
Build the plinth the exact shape of the WC at floor level. Paint with some real bright gloss white to match te ceramic, then seal the joint with a brilliant white silicon.
What would you build the plinth out of? I was thinking about 2 x 18mm Moisture resistant MDF sheets laying on top of each other cut to exact shape as you suggested. I was toying with the idea of putting it in several nail-in plastic furniture glides to keep the wood out of direct contact with the floor.
Forums
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Instagram
Shop