Hi folks Is it acceptable to spur of the cooker isolation switch to a FCU then 2.5mm from the load side to a twin socket? My circuit is in 6mm on 32A MCB. Would I even get THREE 6mm cables into one IS? Doubt it.. Electrically sound it would appear but just want to get your perception.
If it's a 32amp (not 40a or 45a) circuit you can use 2.5 t/e to your double socket outlet and there's no need for the fcu to feed the socket.
Thanks pal, should i really put a 2.5mm on a 32 amp MCB though? I was just thinking in theory theres nothing to protect the small run of 2.5mm is there? At least with the FCU i'm covered then?
Thats why i thought it would be necessary to feed 6mm into the FCU and then fuse down, plus that way i'm keeping all the circuit conductors the same size? Not arguing i'm just checking by the way..
There is differences between fault protection and overload protection. As above, plug fuses prevent overload. Overload protection can be down stream. Fault protection is provided by the 32amp MCB. I do not like seeing spurs taken from a dedicated cooker circuit though.
Agree bad pratice, but use to be quite common though,when I was my previous place, a spur from cooker circuit was feeding two double sockets. And here cooker spur was connected to a fcu & socket for fridge freezer location, since sorted by extending ring final.
That was my concern gents, that a 2.5mm on a 32 MCB is essentially a radial off the cooker switch and that say 32 amps were to flow through it the cable would overheat (in theory) Look in the picture i've attached and you'll see my problem.. the old socket DIRECTLY above the hob needs to go, so i was planning to just run a socket of the isolation switch instead keeping it 6mm into supply FCU then fusing down to 2.5. I fully understand i'm limited on what I can put on that socket also Cheers gents
Looks like a new kitchen and very bad planning/forethought on whoever fitted fitted it. The socket should have been moved before the kitchen was fitted.
What is going to happen to the socket directly above the cooker? Is it going to be left there? Oh right the chap said it was going to go. After the socket has been taken out will the cable/cables feeding it be taken out, or will they be left in wall after being capped, and then spammed with bonding plaster? If this is the case then there will be no indication of cable in wall which is a reg breach tbqh. However if the chap uses a metal blanking plate then all hunky dory.
I assume the hob is hard wired into the cooker isolation switch, maybe via an under worktop cooker connection unit.but what is powering the oven ,looks like electric oven to me. is it also on the same circuit ?
Its on a dual connection plate.. cooker had plug on it but it they chopped off and now runs off the same circuit the two are under 15 kW by the way
Could potentially remove the socket and move it to the right of the picture? But yes of course any decision to remove the cable will be removed with
should hope the load on the circuit is way below 15kw . 32 amp circuit is not really designed for a load anywhere near that .
6mm cable on a 32 amp mcb is a standard cooker circuit and is good for up to 15kW. (diversity taken into account!)
sure Seneca ,6mm /32amp is standard cooker circuit .diversity being a hypothetical calculus that assumes all elements etc will not be on at the same time /duration and therefore allows a theoretical load up to 15 kW. in reality the MCB would trip around 9. what do you make of the op telling us that the 13 amp fuse that the oven manufacturer fitted to protect the appliance ( within the plug) has been cut off and hard wired with the hob now "protected by the 32 amp MCB ) and what do you reckon of his idea to add a spur to the circuit ? regards terry.
An absolute no no in your book then? You'd rather see it either cut into ring or put on its cct back to CCU? What about my proposal for the 6mm to the FCU then the 2.5 to the socket? Cheers for your help
If I were looking at the job, I wouldn't touch the cooker circuit at all. There doesn't appear to be a switched spur installed either for the cooker hood. Bad design again. Always put an isolation switch in for a cooker hood as they are usually wired up behind the 'chimney' and impossible to access without dismantling it. Chances are the hood has been spurred straight off the double socket. If it has then just introduce a switched fused spur at high level in line with and vertically above the socket to say about 300mm below the ceiling and wire the hood off that. Then modify and continue the circuit wiring vertically down below the worktop, then along the wall and back up on the other side of the hob next to the cooker switch and put a double socket on that. If its dot and dab plasterboard then you may get away with running wires in the gap between the plasterboard and wall, else some minor chasing and re-plastering would be required. Think outside the box! There is no point trying to work with the cooker control switch when you have a problem with the socket above the hob. Doing what I suggest will kill two birds with one stone.
So basically UP, cut into upstairs ring add a SFCU at top of kitchen for the hood and then one single spur off that to a TWIN socket outlet? Yes correct the design element is not the best.. outlet right in the middle of hob, no spur provided for a cooker hood etc etc. The socket above the hob for your information will be removed with cable completely removed from the adjacent socket. Then filled with plaster.
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