Aerial cables will be re-positioned in the eaves section. Chisels out damaged brick, new brick will be replaced after. New hole has been drilled, then lined using plumbing pipe. Will have to cut the neighbors aerial then rejoin after passing through. Other side I have only drilled a 25mm hole and lined with overflow pipe as only one cable needs to pass through.
There was a gap behind the stud so tested on stud and filled the gap with a bead of expanding foam on either side. The stud is a lot more secure and solid now so will end up doing this the whole lot, think its going to help with sound proofing as well. Don't think I need to put in further noggins in either now.
I'm just in the process of rewiring the upper lighting circuit. Went for the sure wire product as wanted to keep cable runs orgainised. Have had to use two boxes in series. this one is the 2 way lighting witch junction box. The feed goes in to PI/O connections then the suppl for the 4 way one on opposites side of eaves is taken from another PI/O connection.This one is full. Going to get double clips or use wide trunking. M8 nuts were glued to the back of the hole positions so I could route the cable behind the box, think it's neater this way. On 4 way box wired up the the rear bedroom, WC. Will do bathroom tommorw as more complicated, wanted downlights but can't as beams take up much of the room so wll have to put one there. The only problem is the 3 pole switch needs a permanent live so may have to put additional wags in the box to make this up. Otherwise made the cabling much neater, think lever wagos would have been easier as can be difficult to press?
I'm sure those surewire boxes are great when the job fits them perfectly, I just bought a Wago "starter kit" as I prefer to have the flexibility. Next wiring job will be doing spots in the bathroom (probably x5), although quite a few spots these days come with their own mini junction box.
That seems a very good Idea. Neat too. Think I'll have to try one. The lighting wago's are generally more fiddly and harder to push. I prefer the push in range for lighting. Blimey, just noticed they do large ones: http://www.screwfix.com/p/surewire-sw7m-mf-16a-7-way-pre-wired-junction-box-white/4413j I'll defiantly use these on spotlight installs.
Starting a loft conversion in summer. Nothing like getting the steel and framework done and chip boards installed and then when you can finally sit/walk on it and have a large Cod & Chips with some lemon with a can of cola and sun beating hard.
Nearly finished the 4 way one, I have a spare light/switch so could connect a light in the eaves section. For the fan I have had to take a 3 core+e from the box (permanent live from the spare P I/O connection) then will have to go into a wago box to house the connections for light and fan, may be another way but this is what I have worked out.
Might have a look tommorw, would prefer them in one housing, but because its in the eaves section I'm not too fussy.
Just waiting for the best day as need to cut the neighbors TV feed then re-thread it through the new hole. Need to go in to both sides.
There's one mast but each house has its separate aerial. This is how it was done when built. Was going to pay for a new mast to be sited on neighbours gable, but much easier to do this way.
Ordered some loft rolls to go over the 50mm Rockwool RA45 acoustic slab. Rolls were perforated at predetermined widths, so had to cut rolls to width. 3rd joist in, insualtion was a bit wet when delivered so is compacted, hopefully it should open up? 170mm Knauf loft roll earthwool, made from recylged glass bottless, havnt worn any gloves and doesn't feel itchy. Not as dense as the rockwool. At beam insulation tied to make sure all the beams were on a levelish plane (i.eno ups and downs), very difficult to do as all depends on wall plates. 2m level Starting to put flooring down to cover the 4 joists, which will be 7 sheets in total. Stuck one down with stixall and very instant grab. used laser level to mark each beam so i knew where to stop with the glue. Was planning on screwing it down as well, but don't think I need to now. Really could do with stairs, but unable to find anyone, had one quote but s nearly working out at £1000 just for labour alone. Thinking of going to ordering stairs myself from stair box...
The price I'm getting off stair box is £576 for the stairs inc. delivery. So doesn't seem to bad basing on other prices. This is redwood stringers, 32mm pine treads and ply risers, 2 posts. no hand rail or spindles. 2 stair people have said its better to have the stairs made up before fitting (i.e workshop)
Unfortunately I tend to agree with the stair people, it's far far superior to have it checked in the shop first prior to site delivery. £576 for a single kite winder including newels and delivery seems pretty cheap to me, they will have done it on a cnc machine with no dry fit, and just shipped it straight out to you. If it doesn't fit, you'll be up shxt creek, at least with a local joinery any issues they're close by to sort it, (and they're liable, not you). However, a grand for just labour not including the staircase materials seems excessive, one man in a Joiner shop ,a day and a half to make the stairs including the materials and transportation, overheads etc, I'd have thought you'd be looking at around £700-£800 myself........