The manufacture says the staircase weighs 107kg (inc the quarter landing). Got someone who will help to lift the stairs and he knows another friend. Going to be tricky getting the stairs in, front door will have to come off too. I've had the top and bottom posts unfixed as wouldn't get in, but they did say it would be more stable with them on. Stairs have been made nearly same width to current stairs, so will need to be lifted above the hand rail and newel post to clear. May have to take out spindles or even handrail of current stairs. They prepare the cuts for you, bot sure if the newel post would have been notched but will know upon delivery, the overall length I have 3mm play , thought the wooden trimmer would only be 44mm,but is 50mm thick...
Going to have a lot of fun & the air will turn blue. Last staircase I did quite a few years ago, four of us struggled to lift it in the right place, ended up using block & tackle fixed to a purlin to lift it into place for the attic.
They shouldn't have notched the newel unless you told them the depth of the trimmer joist, as otherwise you could have a big cutout that plasterboard wont cover from underneath, unless you cut the bottom of the newel flush with the joist. When you say 3mm(?!) on the length, are they are sending you loose components to build the quarter landing or do you have to get 4x2 and mdf/chipboard yourself? They won't be sending you a made up box for the landing expecting it to slot in with 3mm to spare is what I'm asking, as it'd make life really difficult if they have.
I'm not sure how the quarter landing is attached, but will come separate to the main stairs. Haven't given them depth of joist. The bottom newel post should rest flush on the floor, and the stinger to the brick wall will continue down to the floor, so should be able to get the main stairs in even id landing need some adjusting Not something I've done before but not looking forward to lifting it, going to be heavy! The velux windows were a struggle to lift with two people.
If possible, attach the top newel to the main flight before lifting in, have someone standing up top in attic ready to grab newel to hold stairs in place, whilst you level the treads and fix to wall temporary. You may want to run doubled up scaffold planks across your first floor stairwell opening once all your components are on the first floor as a safe platform to walk on and work off. This makes it easier for two of you to lift the stairs up from below, whilst the one up top holds it to stop from dropping down.
That seems like a good idea. Stairs will have to be lifted up into place in stages. May have to make temporary support to carry stairs above current stairs until the newel post can be attached. Should be able to make something using timber.
Getting everything ready for stairs, had call from Stairbox to confirm delivery, the driver will ring or text 1/2 hour before arrival. Made up a temporary support to hold new stairs above current stairs, so should be able to attach newel post here. Then should be able to get scaffolding planks between span. Area has been made clear and plaster removed back to blockwork near to landing area. Newel post has been marked to help locate it. It will finish right up to inner plasterboard and sit flush with floor. Landing area was made narrow so newel post would rest fully on floorboard. Not sure how the landing is constructed? but want to make it accessible for cables, as consumer unit is located underneath. Existing electrical cables behind evident capping were relocated prior.
Must have use over 30 lengths of 3m CLS timber alone for the loft, and still need to make another wall up there. Been keeping all the off-cuts in a sack. Kept all the old timber truss work that came out so will try and use wup what I can, don't like throwing timber away.
After all this you'll need to install a woodburner for all the offcuts! Fair play to you, extraordinarily neat with your work and with your preparation. What is your trade background may I ask?
Well in that case your work is all the more impressive, even if you do flip the light switch ten times....
Stairs came on Monday. The main stairs and landing were all made up from one piece of stringer, not what I had planned, so was a nightmare getting them in, because of the front door position were unable swing the stairs in as was hitting the banister rails, so had to cut a section out ,if that wasn't enough we then had to lift the stairs right up into the loft to enable the landing to get in place. the head and foot cuts were already cut, but the newel post had to be cut, which should have been a simple case of transferring the measurements to the post, the person who was helping me thought it only needed 5mm notching out, after several attempts was stairs were fitting, but really needed further notching to bring stairs right upto trimmer. About 10-11mm gap left from edge of head cut to stair trimmer. Spent most of today finishing the stairs. Had to adjust the landing, stringer had to be channeled into breeze block wall. Outer stringer to block wall was altered and re-notched into stringer. Rest of stairs use 9mm ply, for te landing piece used 18mm ply for strength, floorboard was replaced and planed flat to make it even. Series of CLS timber was used to make up the framework for strength, then blocks were cut to fit underneath making sure everything was level and level to housing joints. Landing tread was one pice so had to cut into two pices to be able to fit in. Access cover was beveled three sides using plunge saw. Access cover in place. Used 18mm ply for the riser on next tread for strength, just glued and screwed from back. Supplied angled wooden blocks were fixed using gorilla glue and stapled in place. Everything feels solid now, glued a wedge to close the gap on the head cut. Used 18mm ply for the top riser. Top tread had to be brought down by abut 5mm on the post side to make it level with flooring. Tread notch bought down, filled using wood. Some damaged to top of stringer made good by gluing a piece of wood. Base plate should cover damage. Sample piece of flooring showing tread flush.
Cracking fit that. Even though they made life difficult with the built in landing string, you made a top job of making them fit. When they're first delivered loosely assembled you'd never think they'd be sturdy enough to walk up, yet once notched over trimmer, glued, screwed and wedged, they'll never go anywhere. And now once you've breathed a sigh of relief, the work gets busier and more enjoyable. Fair (stair?) effort!
The windows and stairs always make the most difference to a loft conversion. Everything else seems slow progress, but the stairs and windows feel like huge progress. Takes it from a 'site' to a room. Nice job on them.
Fitted another VELUX on rear, decided to get another one, prices have gone up a few days ago. Don't need to go up into loft into with ladders anymore. Got the chop saw up there now, so much easier to cut things. Now stairs are in, can look at stud wall and position of doors etc. Need to rethink the ceiling above the landing area as not quite getting the 2m head clearance, needs to be bought back a few inches.
Superb job Jit, do admire your attention to detail. Keep those treads covered & protected, easy to get them grubby or stained & sometimes hard to get back to the orginal finish. Use to use a stair protector sheeting, it was non slip, but a breathable material & water resistant, can't remember it's name.
My stairs looked like this. We bolted them to the wall with thunderbolts as a recommendation of the staircase manufacturer. I had to apply insulated plaster board to the wall too for BC.
stairs were fixed at every third tread through stringer using plugs and screws. Checked over the drawings originally had done by the architect, but doesn't mention anything about using insulated plasterboard on the wall stringer side. drawing do show insulation underneath, but not specs given, was thinning of using 35mm insulated plasterboard here and need to think how the ends of boards will be covered, maybe use 50mm architrave? Was going to chase out the wall so plaster would cover the stinger, but will just put another layer over existing after preparation. There will be a door on the left as you enter the loft, so am thinking only the inside of the room needs to be insulated as stair case will be open plan and not enclosed. May be a good idea to get another inspection from BC.
Nevers hurt, can save you a lot of grief,expense, as they might spot something you have over looked, or suggest a better way of doing something.
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