Tiling on brick wall.....

you can't skim onto brick/blockwork. you have to use a backing plaster which will have to be skimmed as you cant tile onto backing plaster. if you do go that route, depending on how thick the plaster needs to be to bring the wall up to level you will be looking at anything from 2-5 weeks drying time

 

Use some marine ply or dot & dab,-screw some plaster board to even the wall out.

 

can't he use bonding plaster and tile on that or is bonding backing plaster, or could you not coat the plaster with something to make it ok to tile on?

 

once more for the cheap seats - you can't tile onto backing plaster
that includes hardwall, bonding coat, browning or whatever else you find. it reacts badly with the tile adhesive so your tiles will be on the floor within a few weeks.
yes you can coat bonding - with multifinish
the only backing plaster suitable for tiles is sand and cement which will take around 6 weeks to dry

 

NO and if you did they wouldnt stay up long especially if its an external wall. I say no because on brick you would have to dot and dab the tiles to achieve a level surface which allows moisture behind the tiles...bad news and in any case its the right way of doing things unless your name is bodgit, your american or your taking part in a house programme.

If it is an external wall I would tank it then plaster it then tile

.....or (tank it if external) dot and dab plaster board on top

.....or make a stud wall and screw board on to it then tile.

either way you will need to alter your window architrave if you are going to do it properly.

 

mix the drywall adhesive into a thick paste but not to thick cos it sets fast (it also sticks like **** to a blanket).

Evenly dolop the boards...if its an 8x4 board i usually do 4 rows of 4 dolops.....most important thing is to make sure you get it in the corners because if you dont the corners of the board will flex when you push your finger on them.

When youve done that offer it up to the wall and I use a 6ft level and a flat piece of wood.....place the long flat piece of wood on the board and slap the level against it untill the board is well adhered and perfectly level. It is very easy to do and shouldnt cause you many problems.

 

p.s. 8x4 boards are very hard to dot and dab by yourself....buy 1 of your mates a pint and get them to give you a hand

 

and accros the top bottom and sides you should have a continuous dollop of adhesive

lee

 

Do what they used to do in the old days - before modern tile adhesives - render the wall and tile onto the render - I tried it once- what a faff!

They must have been really patient and really skilled in days gone by....and the tiles never come off either!

 

if you were dotting and dabbing an 8' piece of board you would mark the position on the wall and dab the wall

 

what ever floats ya boat

 

12.5 mm will be best, less chance of it bowing but if it means that you'll only have 2-3 mm for the adhesive then use 9mm. your dabs should be a good 25mm thick before being pressed by the board.
Plasterboard adhesive is very sticky but like any adhesive, it needs a sound surface so whatever you are applying it to needs to be brushed down and any loose material removed. do as jizzard says though and use a straight edge to make sure you are bringing the board in line with the existing surface. miss it by 1 or 2mm and your tiling will look ****. don't forget to prime your plasterboard with acrylic primer before tiling