Uphill struggle

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by spencer_screw, Apr 20, 2014.

  1. spencer_screw

    spencer_screw New Member

    Hi people.

    Wondering if you can help me please as Im looking for some info.

    I've swapped over our downstairs toilet which was an overhead one. I bought a new toilet but its a lot lower than the soil stack. I can't move the soil stack as its concreted in. Also the mound that houses this means I had to use a mcalpine flex connector ( ignore the cover I cut it too wide, but will sort that later ) Its not all that long a connection as you can see but it does need to travel uphill somewhat!

    Now my question is as that's such a short run ( see the video, sorry for it being on its side ) will the flush have enough oomp to push 'your business' away. I've tried it with some screwed up hand fulls of just loo roll x 3 and it clears those ). Sorry in the vid some i've got left as I didn't do the full dual flush by mistake.

    As you can see the water level in the loo is fine after a flush ( many forums said it will be an inch higher? )

    The only thing over wise is a plinth to raise loo by 5cm but don't really want if I don't have to.

    http://youtu.be/CEbxtEY0THA

    Any thoughts.

    Cheers.
     
  2. PJ Wales

    PJ Wales Member

    you could always build a small raised pedestal for the toilet to sit on and bring the toilet height higher so it then not an uphill.
     
  3. Rulland

    Rulland Screwfix Select

    And get a proper phone not a fruit phone, they always seem to do everything sideways, typical apple......
     
  4. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    I see it up the right way!!!!

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  5. spencer_screw

    spencer_screw New Member

    And its an android.

    OK we've had the comedians.....any plumbers? ;-)
     
  6. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    I think you'll get a build-up there, and it'll worsen over time.

    Plinth would be best. Make it all the way across the room if narrow, or nice semi-circle otherwise. Make it a feature.

    Or make the hole in the wall lower, and shorten the downpipe behind the wall.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
    spencer_screw likes this.
  7. spencer_screw

    spencer_screw New Member

    I think it will be the plinth and that will raise it easy. Cant shorten as its just a 90 degree bend into a concrete floor.

    I presume if level the connector will have no problems. Its a extendable one with ridges as you make it longer. Presume the p000 will go over the bumps.

    Anyone know where they are cheaper than £65/75?

    Cheers.
     
  8. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    What do you want cheaper than £65/75, a flexable connector, if so they are about £20.00 on here (screwfix).
     
  9. spencer_screw

    spencer_screw New Member

  10. PJ Wales

    PJ Wales Member

    you could google toilet plinth and find one from ebay for around 50 to 60 quids, cheaper option would be to buy lenght of wood of 2 by 3 and sheet of plywood of 5mm thickness and build your plinth. As someone suggested build it across the room but extra joist directly under the toilet.
     
  11. Biochef

    Biochef Member

    I agree with handy that bend can be shortened it's a bit more work but very doable
     
  12. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    Please do this, remove the bent pan connector in the void, then fit a 4" soil 90 or elbow (same thing) into the existing drain, if this is not possible as drain has no collar or has been cut flush at floor level then...get a polypipe (brand name) bent pan connector & push it down further into drain until it's centre is 7" off tile floor, then put a straight pan connector on pan & join to each with short piece of soil pipe, grease all joints but not the china pan outlet or connector to it
     
  13. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    Do not raise or pack pan it's crazy!
     
  14. Spence, are you trying to get a solution that doesn't involve removing a few tiles and getting to that elbow behind the boxed-in section?

    'Cos the proper solution is to get to that elbow behind. It even looks as tho' it's plastic? Even if it isn't, all you need to do is angle-grind it virtually flush with the floor and shove in a plastic fitting. In fact, an angled pan-connector will shove straight in there and make a seal. And then a straight pan connector will feed into this one.

    Unless, of course, they make 'proper' plastic fitting to slip into a 4" clay soil pipe...
     
    spencer_screw likes this.
  15. tom.plum

    tom.plum Screwfix Select

    [​IMG] that plastic bend is a bent multikwik, take it out cut it down and go from there, use a staight pan connector and a pan connector extension,
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2014
    spencer_screw and Cheburashka like this.
  16. Awww-maaaan, G&W said wot I said, after I said it, but his post is still higher up than mine. Awwwmaaaaan...

    Mr Plum - more detail needed. And you know what I mean...
     
    spencer_screw likes this.
  17. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    I think not dev mine was last night yours was today... Didn't know it was so competitive
     
  18. spencer_screw

    spencer_screw New Member

    If I cut this flat to the floor though I suspect this is the top of a previous pan connector of some kind so that will already be a 4 inch pipe down the hole that Im trying to slip inside of again - hope that makes sense
     
  19. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select


    If you think it is a connector already in the pipe, why can't it be pulled out and a new one fitted at the right height.
     
  20. spencer_screw

    spencer_screw New Member

    And the tiling is a false wall that I can just unscrew. That connector is a plastic pipeand the other end has been enbedded in cement - god knows why?!

    loopipe.jpg
     

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