I have finally had things explained to me in a way that I can grasp lol! To refill the tank with air, first isolate the flow and returns and drain the water from the boiler. Then pump the air in FIRST (into the EV) Then open F and R and fill system with water to 1 bar. My dad has just been pumping air into the EV without isolating the F and R or draining the boiler, hence probably why water coming out? Im gonna go over and try what I said, hopefully EV still ok and not split. If Id known the air has to go in FIRST then Id have been clear on it. Thanks all anyway
Oops, Gracie - sorry, I missed the 'psi'! Anyways, sorry again - your EV is gone. Water cannot get out the air fill valve unless the rubber diaphragm is bust. (Or unless your dad pumped water into the air valve, which I'm guessing he didn't. I doubt the problem was caused by the air being pumped without the water being first released. All that would do is to give a 1 bar air pressure reading very quickly - the air would be acting against the water so your air pressure readings would go to 1 bar very quickly - without enough air in there. Why are the eBay prices sometimes so cheap? I dunno. But they certainly are. Just bought aq genuine Belling oven element for £17 delivered. Belling themselves are asking £60... Got a GlowWorm PRV for less than a tenner too - from a normal supplier it would be 3 times the price. Your method of recharging the vessel sounds good to me - can plumbies confirm? Just don't use the PRV to empty the boiler as they get tricky to re-seal. Mind you, there's a chance that's too late as it's already been forced open a number of times. Have to say I chickened out of replacing that part on my mum-in-law's boiler...
Thanks again Devils. Just spoke to him to get the details. Has pumped it up several times and let the air out to see if water comes out etc. In total hes had about a tablespoon out. Defo knackered still you think?
Any water out of valve is too much, it will get worse and as system gets hot and the pressure increases the leak in the exp vessel will get greater. definitely change it, or fit an external one, or as I said earlier get a rad, half empty it and the air in it will work as expansion vessel until you get it replaced.
Right thanks Pete. A final update. Eventually went over there, isolated F and R, drained boiler. When it stopped drainin gout Id pump some air into the EV with a bike pump and more water would then drain out until eventually it stopped. Pumped air up to 1 bar and left for about 10 mins +. Pressure held fine. The done up drain point, opend F and R and put wtare pressure in system up to about 1-1.5 bar. All now fine and working. Just goes to show, unitl you go over and check out yourself you never know whats happening! Saved a bullseye tho...for now!
Nice job, Gracie. But if that exp vessel holds the pressure over the next few weeks, I'll eat my diaphragm. I guess it could be a teeny, tiny leak past the edge where the two sides join - the actual diaphragm itself might well be intact. In which case, who knows, it might be fine for donkey's. If the leak is significant, tho', bear in mind that the air in the vessel is almost certainly percolating through to the water side. Air + water = unpleasant stuff in your system. If it holds, then brilliant. If the vessel needs replacing, it might be worth doing a complete drain-down and refill - with fresh inhibitor added.
Yes DA I too will be surprised if the pressure holds, Either water did come out of the valve or it didn't if it did then there is a leak, no doubt about it. We will have to wait and see.
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