When plaster meets wood - best way to do this?

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by CZFred, Feb 18, 2017.

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  1. CZFred

    CZFred New Member

    I have to make a 45 degree dry wall, skimmed, meet a pine framework for doors. I'm worried that the line where the two meet will crack and forever need filling. Is there a good technique for this? I will paint the pine, but can only paint to front face if that helps? Should I PVA the right face which meets to plaster. Or is there some secret I don't know about please?

    See diagram. Plaster meets wood.JPG

    Thanks in advance!!
     
    CZFred, Feb 18, 2017
    #1
  2. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    A beading to cover over between the two different material surfaces. Plenty available, attached to the pine and floating over the plaster join. Probably fill the small gap on the plaster side with a 'Premium' grade caulk.
     
    Astramax, Feb 18, 2017
    #2
    CZFred likes this.
  3. CZFred

    CZFred New Member

    Thank you. Sorry to be thick, but which beading do you mean? Just something flat do you mean? So it wouldn't be visible as it'd end before the external corner, and the caulk would cover the edge of it? If you're feeling really generous, perhaps you could link me to the beading product that you'd use in this situation. A hundred thank yous.
     
    CZFred, Feb 18, 2017
    #3
  4. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Yes you can buy flat, OG, astragal, hockey stick, half round, panel mouldings etc, timber merchants have a good selection even B & Q and Wickes stock timber mouldings. Pin it to the pine with a small overlap over the plaster to disguise the join line.
     
    Astramax, Feb 18, 2017
    #4
  5. CZFred

    CZFred New Member

    Cheers!
     
    CZFred, Feb 18, 2017
    #5
  6. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Could use a plaster stop bead. Take PB flush to corner of frame...screw bead on so it just overlaps onto frame then skim away. I usually scrim down the join before skimming too.
     
    CGN, Feb 18, 2017
    #6
  7. CZFred

    CZFred New Member

    Okay - yeah - I actually thought Astramax was talking about plasterboard/plaster beading like this, not wooden beading - that's why I was confused at first. Thanks.
     
    CZFred, Feb 18, 2017
    #7
  8. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    CGN, Feb 18, 2017
    #8
  9. CZFred

    CZFred New Member

    Thanks, it's just that this has a 135 degree outer angle (see plan view on diagram), so there'd still be a 45 degree, triagular gap, and in it, plaster/skim would still be up against wood.
     
    CZFred, Feb 18, 2017
    #9
  10. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Whatever you do won't look right, your architrave will overhang, this is badly designed.
     
    chippie244, Feb 18, 2017
    #10
  11. CZFred

    CZFred New Member

    It's just a cupboard door, not a big walk-through door. There's no architrave. Just 20mm pine cupboard 'sides'. It is awkward though - you're right about that. :-/
     
    CZFred, Feb 18, 2017
    #11
  12. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    Is there any way of bringing the frame forwards or setting the wall back a little so that the two corners don't meet at the apex? That would then be simple to fill with caulking.
     
    WillyEckerslike, Feb 18, 2017
    #12
  13. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Leave a shadow gap

    upload_2017-2-18_22-43-35.png
     
    sospan, Feb 18, 2017
    #13
    Deleted member 33931, tore81 and CZFred like this.
  14. CZFred

    CZFred New Member

    Yes. Instead of cutting the plasterboard at 135/45 degrees, I could keep it at 90 (which would be way simpler anyway!). There'd then be a 45 degree triagular gap between the end of the plasterboard and the side of the pine. When the skim is done, that gap could purposely be left there ready for filling with caulk. Do you think that'd work okay?
     
    CZFred, Feb 18, 2017
    #14
  15. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    That looks smart interested in how that is done.

    Probably need frog tape then caulked over which makes a nice joint.

    Trial on scrap maybe, wait till sospan replies
     
    tore81, Feb 18, 2017
    #15
  16. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    With a stop bead...off sorts :)
     
    CGN, Feb 18, 2017
    #16
  17. 2shortplanks

    2shortplanks Active Member

    I think what he is suggesting, and what I'd do, is to butt the stop bead against the timber, then plaster up to the stop bead, which will leave a small groove between timber and bead, which you can leave as a feature, or fill with caulking. Or you could put a length of dowel against the frame, then 12mm stop bead,then plasterboard. I think it's better to make a feature of the join rather than just plaster up to the frame, although that might be ok if the plasterboard is securely fixed to the frame.
     
    2shortplanks, Feb 18, 2017
    #17
    Deleted member 33931 and CGN like this.
  18. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Yes...basically that. Often use stop beads on to door linings when not convenient to use archy :)

    If it's setup up correctly, with stop bead on t'other side and head, would look quite slick.

    Not sure if OP knows what a stop bead is?!
     
    CGN, Feb 18, 2017
    #18
  19. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Make a timber fillet.
     
    chippie244, Feb 18, 2017
    #19
  20. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Yep just use a stop bead about 10-15mm away from the frame
     
    sospan, Feb 19, 2017
    #20
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