Wiring double dimmers

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by monkeyman, Feb 27, 2005.

  1. monkeyman

    monkeyman New Member

    In my dining room I have one double light switch that controls the centre light and the wall lights.

    I want to replace this with a double dimmer but am having problems.

    There are three wires currently to the double switch (excluding the earth to the backplate)

    RED
    YELLOW
    BLUE

    Currently they are wired like this and work:

    L1 (empty) L2(Yellow) C(blue)

    C(small piece of red wire to here and L2) L1(empty) L2 (Red)

    I thought I could just copy this wiring with the dimmer but it fails to work.

    Am I mising something obvious?
     
  2. marc the spark

    marc the spark New Member

    Morning,

    The blue seems to be your feed to the switch,and the red and yellow are switch wires going to your light fittings.

    The blue should be terminated into the C (common) terminal on both switches by using a link between, then the red into L1 on one switch and the yellow into L1 on the other, the yellow and blue should have red sleeving on them to indicate they are live wires and if the switch is metal it will need to be earthed.
    Let us know your result.

    Marc
     
  3. Parpee

    Parpee Member

    Monkeyman,

    I see it slightly differently to M-the-S, because it is unclear which L1, L2, and C you are referring to, as there would be 2 of each. Each switch inside the original double switch would have an L1, an L2, and a C (common), and on older switches they are nearly always arranged so the L1 and L2 of a switch are next to each other, and the corresponding C is at the opposite side of the switch. On newer switches all 3 are often on the same side - hence the confusion.

    My guess is that the RED is the supply Live, and the Blue and Yellow are the 2 load Lives. The L1s are both disconnected presumably because the switch was mounted upside down. My suggestion is to wire the RED to both Common (C) terminals (with the aid of your old link wire) and the Yellow and Blue wires to the 2 different L1 terminals.

    PS. I'm, by the way, now the self appointed forum expert on 2-way switching - see my thread "Using L2 for neutral?"

    PP
     
  4. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Hold on a moment (here we go again).
    I see it differently. In the description it is not clear that each switch is connected together, so they won't both work.
    More guesswork, then.
    I think the reference to the short piece of red links common on one switch to L2 on the other (yellow).
    And I think this yellow is the live feed to switch to blue on it's own switch, and to red (through common) on the other switch. AND indeed the switch is upside down.

    Therefore, in the dimmer, the YELLOW should be connected to the common and linked across to the second switch common, and BLUE in L1 for one, and RED in L1 for the other.
    That's if I read the description(and read between the lines) correctly.

    Handyandy - really
     
  5. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    Hey Monkeyman don't look at the thread titled Neutrals in L2, otherwise you'll run a mile rather than get advice on this forum! ;)
     
  6. monkeyman

    monkeyman New Member

    Big Thanks to Marc the spark.

    I wired as he suggested and earthed to the switch as opposed to the backplate. Its all working a treat!
     
  7. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds New Member

    Of course the real lesson is that it is no more acceptable to embark on electrical wiring work without owning a multimeter than it is to use the point of a knife on screws because you don't have a screwdriver, or the heel of a shoe on nails because you don't have a hammer.....
     
  8. Minesa Pint

    Minesa Pint New Member

    BAS - You're bang on in what you say, I don't think that even a small fraction of the people seeking advice on this site own or use a test lamp - which is all that would have been required to fix this problem.

    They'll spend daft money on brass dimmers or fancy light fittings - but £20 on a good test lamp? - no way, the neighbours won't be impresed with that.
     
  9. Parpee

    Parpee Member

    Monkeyman,

    I hate being a bad loser, but if I read the OP correctly, the BLUE was originally connected to only one terminal? That being the case, I suggest you double check that it is working correctly and that one light doesn't come on only when the other is on, or alternatively, only when the other is off?

    PP
     
  10. monkeyman

    monkeyman New Member

    you're right its not qite right so I'll give your advice a whirl shortly.

    There's no winners or losers here just me with dimmable lights
    :)
     
  11. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Can I just ask, which two terminals linked the two switches ?

    Handyandy - really
     
  12. bibbage

    bibbage New Member

    Just think how difficult it would be to sort out if you had neutrals in all the spare terminals!
     
  13. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    After reading this thread and the 'Using L2 for Neutrals'.
    I suggest anyone who is not 100% on the operation of a 2way switch go and get one out the Van/Car/Garage etc and put your multimeter (What you haven't got one? Tut Tut!) onto it's 'continuity/buzzer' setting and have a little play for 5mins.
    If all does not become clear, don't touch electrix again!
    :(
     

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