Hi Guys, I have a porch made up of wooden battens nailed to structure in a sort of diagonal fashion. Some of the battens have rotted, so I have removed the rotten ones and got some ready to replace them. My problem now is the rest of the battens. I have sanded them but obviously they aren't like new wood. I tried to woodpaint them cedar but the old oak stain is making that look rubbish and I already painted the new battens cedar so they look totally different to the one old one I tried. What can I do to make them all look same (I don't want to paint them all white although that would solve it)
You should have tried to colour the new ones to closely match the old ones first. Then chose a top colour. Can't be too expensive to renew the older ones as well? Mr. HandyAndy - Really
There's about 30 in told, so I don't really want to renew old ones if possible. Thinking about it, I used a timbercare treatment which is quite thin (to match nearby fence) What about external wood paint? Would that do the trick? Can I prime the older slats then paint over the primer?
You are spoilt for choice these days with outdoor timber paint. Cuprinol's Garden Shades comes to mind for one - that will cover the colour below I'm pretty sure. It'll need a couple of coats. But plenty other products too.
Tried this stain in blue and a white, not the best for me TBH. White went yellow after two days, despite repeated coats always yellow. Eventually, had to rub down and undercoat and gloss. The blue had really poor stain coverage and water resistance. - if damp soil gets on the surface it stains, wipe it off with a damp cloth and the paint comes with it. Touch it up with a brush and the marks still bleed through.
Other coloured stain seems quite good,it is just the Cuprinol ones seems a bit weak. Bizarely it withstands rain quite well, but any wiping it comes off
I tried the cuprinol wood treatment, but when it rained it washed off all the paint from around the wood filler, how do I first protect the wood filler then apply the cuprinol paint?
I offered to renovate a wee shed at my local school for use as their 'snack shack'. The front was a dark blue but the sides had been coated in a different stuff and was a brown woodstain colour, probably a water-repellent stuff I think it was. Anyhoo, the caretaker still had a can of the blue timber paint so that went on t'front beautifully - no surprise as it was the same stuff underneath. On the sides, however, the blue would become almost translucent and wouldn't cover the brown properly. I also noticed that further coats only seemed to remove the dried one below, so I was getting nowhere fast. Sure enough, the first time it rained the shed turned brown again, and the ground blue (apart from the front, of course...) No idea what the brown stuff was, so I resorted to my old tried and tested method - masonry paint. A pot of white with a dab of black added to make a pleasing soft grey. Not only did it go on perfectly, but it's still looking good 5 years later. I fitted new bargeboards to my ol' hoosie over 10 years ago, and needed them a black colour. What to use? Yep - matt black smooth masonry. I haven't had to repaint them yet, although they could do with it this year. I have a lot of exterior woodwork - an open porch, pergola, trellis etc. on t'front of t'house - yep, all painted with matt black masonry paint. Ooh, ooh, ooh - my driveway gates are timber and needed a colour change 7 years ago from the nasty reddish woodstain. The inner vertical slats are a dark moss colour (yep - a nasty bright forest green masonry paint with added matt black to get the dark shade I wanted) and the outer frame is black. Not only does it adhere brilliantly, but the finish has a richness to it - a 'depth' of colour. Almost totally matt, but with a hint of 'silkiness' to the finish. But not a nasty silk sheen at all. Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh - I fitted stair balustrade 12 years ago with twisted wrought-iron spindles and baskets. How to get a black 'iron' finish? Yep - straight on to the bare metal after giving it a good clean to remove all forging oils and stuff. The finish is awesome. Really. I have also used the black masonry paint on masonry - window cills, wall cappings, etc. So, if you are really stuck - this is what I suggest. Ooh ooh ooh ooh ooh, I have also used it on fibreglass and rubber - the steering console of a boat and the tatty rubber bumper around t'gunwale. And I now recall I had painted my old white PVC window cills black too - with you know what - lightly abraded first for a key, but it has remained on until thew windows were replaced a goodly number of years later. Oh, and all that wood and bargeboards and cills are all south facing, so the paint gets hot. But hasn't peeled. So, that'll be steel, wood - both planed and sawn, fibreglass, hard rubber, PVC and masonry. What colour is it you want? Is there a small section of the cladding where you could try this with masonry paint chust to convince yourself?
You'll need to dab on an exterior grade paint or varnish to the filler parts to match the colour. Mr. HandyAndy - Really