that link goes to my saved list the bigger shed is cheaper?? i was trying to link to my shed so you can get some off my hints but have moved it somehow ?? lol http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bigall2005/media/e1e47346.pbw.html?sort=3&o=15 any way i have top tips have all your sockets at roof height this gives easy access keeps trailing leads off the floor and frees up all the floor and wall space i have 11 double sockets around my 12x10ft shed so never any further than 6ft from a socket [about 4ft apart ] plan your main working area slightly lower than your slider so if you need to cut long timbers they can overlap the working area i make loads off furnitute off many sizes you need at least 2 working heights i have 3[floor workmate/s at 28" and bench at 36" all furniture must be off a size to allow one person to work on and move so large items are in 2 plus bits or final assembly when help is available
thanks big all , very good advice, i wouldn't have thought of having sockets at roof height, i like the slide show of your shed
its 10 year old in this coming january quite a few changes all subtle through trial an error lol one change is a flap in the door to allow the cutting off long timber with the door shut to keep the heat in in your case would maybe be on the side panel to the door to keep the saw away from the main floor area in my set up the door opens to the wall allowing sheet material to sit against the wall behind the saw it is also fully insulated and lined in 12mm ply with a wood burner in the space the ryobi table saw once sat in under the orange juice bottle
good idea about the flap, don't know if i'd like to cut a flap in a new shed though, yes i'll insulate mine as well, there's nothing worse than trying to work in the cold, the wood burner is something i hadn't thought of either, another good idea, yes i'll no doubt find things out by trial and error, it's the best way to learn
the trouble you will have is to use the slider near the door for longer planks if your forward off the door the saw will need around 18"beyond that to clear the door so the front off the swing arm for the base will be central in the doorway the solid door on my shed is 36" wide with a flap 15" wide with no boards behind the saw on the wall the saw can sit back and can pass 14 1/2" planks through the flap as it is now its 4" from the back wall this allows a plank 9" wide to pass through and storage for several boards behind in this configuration the back wall to table fence is 22" fence to the swing arm is 17" so front to back 1m/39" by swinging the table to maximum rh miter this drops down to 32" or within the footprint off the door the point i am really making is you need to plan to quite high degree to get the best use lol
yes i get it plan plan and plan again, if i make a flap, which is a good idea, i think i'll make it lockable because i won't need it all the time, i measured up last night for the shed and 10 ft is a bit wide it brings it close to the garage, which swmbo may not like so i think it'l now be the 16 x 8 ft shed i'll have to draw a plan of it and see where i can fit the various machines.
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