Chasing Speedfit into solid wall

I'm henry the eighth I am I am ohhhh I'm henry the eighth I am.
I'mmmm henry the eighth I am I am.

So I was wrong then?

 

Hi Patrick
I'm a diy'er but have moved and added rads and sunk pipe work in walls several times, using both copper and plastic, depending on the situation

Generally, joins in plastic are recommended to be accessible for any future maintenance issues, ie leaks (although there will be millions of push fit elbows, couplers, T's and others burried under floorboards, laminate, tiles, etc, so no longer accessible)

May well be advisable to replace plastic above floor with copper, and as suggested, either bend the tube 90 degrees or use soldered elbows

Both plastic and copper in a solid wall will need a little room to allow for expansion, so not good to just plaster straight in and also copper will need wrapping to protect against corrosion. Denso tape is usually suggested for this purpose but I've used felt pipe wrap with copper, allows for a little expansion and stops direct contact from plaster/ cement

If using plastic though, remember to use inserts with all fittings, best to use same make throughout pipe, inserts, fittings. Any pipe work on show is best made with copper, ie, rad connections coming out of wall

To answer Miss P's question about not using chrome pipe with push fits it's cause the "grab ring" on the fitting won't "bite" into the chrome pipe, it's too hard. Turn on the pressure and the fitting may well blow off. Not a problem though with copper or plastic pipe

Good luck mate

 

Dave. Hi there. What are your thoughts about what I said though?
Would it be classed as bad advice ?
Was I totally wrong
I allowed for expansion
And accessibility
How many points dave out of ten do I get

 

I like the "bite" thing that you mentioned dave. I love that chrome can't be bitten by plastic. I am now a chrome fan
I like that chrome would say "oh I don't think so matey get your mitts off coz you can't handle me! That's pretty cool go chrome!
Not so good on the towel rail front though I guess.

 

Hi Miss P
No offence meant but can't offer you a point score as don't really know what advice you are referring to

Too many posts to unravel and I'm no expert really, DIY dave is my site name, I'm not here to judge !

 

Please dave.

 

I can judge. Sorry Miss P, but it is not commonplace to ask more questions than the OP!



Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Well he might learn something invaluable
IF he were to ask as many questions as me

Anyway who asked you andypandy???
Naughty boy

 

You did. General forum like. And you should know me well enough by now. I say what I think, if I think it's true.

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Oh yeah. Silly me

 

Hi Patrick
From what you have posted I guess you are all sorted now, however just to throw my two penneth in, what I do is to locate the pipes (copper soldered and tested to two/three bar before plastering them in!!) in the wall, leave sufficient tail hanging out from the wall and then mount the valve to maintain the centres of the pipe whilst plaster is drying.
That way you don't get any probs, if valve is too heavy try and get an odd old bar mixer valve to do the same.
Just my way of doing stuff
All the best
Russ
www.hotun.co.uk

 

Nice one, Russ.

Good move swapping to soldered copper I reckon, Patrick.

And, yes, all buried pipe should be shrouded somehow so's it can expand and contract without causing stress to either itself or the surrounding wall. This could be as simple as cloth pipe lagging, or else the next size up of pipe - eg 22mm for 15mm pipe.

Good luck with your project.

 

Finally! You are home!



Missed you you could of told us you were going away that way I wouldn't fuss and worry
Welcome home dev

 

It's "you could have told us..."

HAVE HAVE HAVE.

Not "OF". Never, ever "of"...

 

OK from hereon in it will be have

 

Cool.

 

Ahhh, bless