How do I connect a Flomasta 3439G 2 Channel Programmer to a Vokera Linea 735 boiler?

Have to agree with Fishy Eric here .

Fitterman, you currently have wires going to the boiler's 'TA' and 'Spare'? These will be presumably going to the boiler's own 'on and orf' control - ie that's the way you currently turn the boiler on and off.

So, I'm pretty sure the first thing you do is remove these to leave 'TA' and 'Spare' free for connecting to your new timer. Leave in the link between the second TA and Spare.

Chust to explain (although I'm sure you know); the actual two terminals you need in the boiler are the two TAs. The only reason the 'Spare' is there is in case you wish to add a room 'stat, in which case that would take the place of the link.

Ok, you take a wire from each TA (or one TA and the Spare...) and these go to Terminals 1 and 3 on the new timer.

Then, to power the timer, you take a L and a N from the boiler's spare L and N terminals on that strip to the timer's L and N.

Do NOT connect any L or N to any of the timer's switching contacts or to and TA. Ie - no 'links' on the timer.

Jobbie jobbed.

 

Chust a couple of points; there is currently a L and N cable (brown and blue) coming from the boiler's 'second' L and N terminals. Where the hell are they going?

And, if you don't fit a room 'stat, you are missing out on a pretty important control over your boiler.

Really, really, really, the best controller for you to fit since you are doing this job is a Programmable Room Thermostat. It will be no more difficult to wire up, and in fact could be simpler as most are battery powered so all you'd actually need to run to it are two wires, one for each TA.

The only added complication is that you'd have to mount it in your 'main' room, and at a certain height off the floor. Where were you planning to fit your new 'timer'?

Or, alternatively, fit a wireless device. That way the main unit won't even need wires at all - you can mount it anywhere! (The receiver part would be mounted near your boiler and wired as your new timer above.)

Worth thinking about?

 

Agree with DA, should fit a programmable stat, they will save money in the long run.

This is the wiring diagram for the time clock.



Connect L to live, N to neutral. There should be no link between L and 1 (COM) on the clock, as it will be volt free. 1 = TA, 3= TA. What do others say?

 

Very clear

 

I have no direct experience of that model, but it certainly looks fine.

(And, being battery operated, you'll just need to run the two TA wires - no mains power.)

What do these do over a simple 'timer/programmer'?

First, it has a room 'stat. This will monitor your main room's temp and then shut off the boiler when that temp has been reached. At the moment, your boiler will try to continue to run even when most/all your rads are up to temp and have shut off. The only thing that'll make your boiler shut down for a while is when the water temp trips the overheat 'stat inside it. So your boiler will always be trying to deliver the hottest water it can - not really ideal for long-term reliability and economy.

Then this thing has a programmer built in as well.

But the REAL beauty of these devices is the way these two elements are combined; you can tell it what temp you want at what time.

For instance: 20oC at 7am. Followed by 14oC at 8.30am. Back up to 21oC at 5pm. Down to 12oC at 11pm. Back on at 20oC the next morning at 7am... Get the idea? Set and forget - no more twiddling. Tho' you can override them if you need.

They are all pretty much the same - the main differences are how many 'on and offs' you can set for each day, whether you can have different settings for each day (or will the whole Mon to Fri be the same), and how easy they are to use.

That one looks as tho' it gives good control - different settings for each day if you want, or you can set one week day and make them all the same, chust different at the weekends.

But CHECK FIRST

 

A wired or wireless programmable stat would fit the bill.

it just depends whether you can run a length of cable from the stat to the boiler.

If going for a wireless model then you will not need to run this length of cable, you are then free to move and position the stat whenever.

i have used Honeywell stats, and have been reliable. the flomast stat is a new product from SF and dosn't have any reviews.

Do you have TRV (thermostatic radiator valves fitted to most radiators. usually the stat is fitted where there are non fitted, i.e in a hallways or landing.

 

Yes, very likely. It will certainly be 'normal'.

Good job!

 

Thanks for the thanks.

That makes it worth it for us too (need a lurv smiley...)

 

Hi Jitender. Can you advise on wiring a nest to a vokera linea 24 with no room stat please.

 

How do you currently turn the heating on and off?

 

Hi Mike
Sorry for the late reply (I’m new to this and just realised I had a message) at the moment it is with the timer clock on the boiler but was looking at a nest or a hive.

 

A 5 core cable from the boiler to the receiver of your chosen stat.
The receiver would get fitted right next to the boiler.