Leaking boiler - can I fix it?

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Absinthe Minded, Aug 3, 2016.

  1. Haven't got a scooby... :(

    I can only suggest that it's all probably fairly 'logical', with every bit designed to remove using simple slide-clips and stuff.

    No gas coves on here to help? :(
     
  2. bransty1

    bransty1 New Member

    it will be the flow sensor adaptor that is your problem,it is situated behind the flow turbine
     
  3. Rulland

    Rulland Screwfix Select

    Sorted:), new blood, let's see.
     
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.
  4. Cool.

    Could you talk AM through dismantling that part, purdy please?
     
  5. Well, I finally got a plumber round as I was too much of a scaredy cat to remove the flow sensor adaptor myself. The first bloke came round and looked at it, said "it looks like there's a crack in the whole assembly", and subsequently quoted me £350 to repair it. That didn't fill me with much confidence, so I was telling a good mate of mine about it and he said, "hang on, my cousin's a plumber!"

    So, his cousin has been round, we had a chat about it and I left him to it.

    Turns out that it was the flow sensor adaptor, it has sort of partly disintegrated. So its top marks to @bransty1! He's going to see if he can get one tomorrow and come back and fit it (the plumber that is, not bransty1)

    So, as usual, thank you all for guiding me through things - I really appreciate it and the good new is that it looks like its going to be a hell of a lot less than £350.

    I'll keep you up-to-date :)

    Thanks,
    Nick.

    EDIT: And @Rulland has the best avatar ever. Imagine her rewiring your house... *gazes off into the distance*
     
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.
  6. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    :eek::eek::eek:

    I never noticed that.:):cool:
     
    Absinthe Minded likes this.
  7. Phew - good result at the end.

    Thanks for reporting back.



    (You mean my avatar doesn't have the same effect...? :()
     
  8. She's good, but she's not that good ;)

    DA, thanks for your unwavering support through all of this; its much appreciated. Thanks to everybody that has contributed to the thread. He charged me £60, which, of course, was mates rates, so I gave him £100, which was a good deal cheaper than the other bloke!

    Nick :)
     
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.
  9. Hello all,

    So, the leak reappeared about two weeks later, so I am guessing that another of those components that are housed in that sleeve have disintegrated. The heating has also packed up, I reckon its the pump or the diverter valve. My mate's cousin came back around and had a look while we were out at work. He says that the heating problem might be the pump, but that he's not that familiar with Worcester Bosch boilers and that it could be more than one part failing.

    He suggested that I book a WB engineer in, since they will fix almost anything, including multiple problems, for around £250, which they will, so that's what I have done. They should be here on Wednesday.

    The thermostat has also packed up (the LCD segments have nearly all disappeared), its a Honeywell CM907, and I am looking to replace it with a DT90E.

    Since my knowledge of anything electrical is actually far worse that my knowledge of boilers, I am back here, begging you for more help :) Will you help me again, is this an easy job to do, or could I end up in a twitching, electrified heap on the living room floor?

    Ha ha, no, honestly, if I send pics of wiring, can you good people show me the way?

    Ta,
    Nick.
     
  10. Hi AM.

    Shame about the new issues.

    The good news is that swapping your 'stats is dead easy, as easy as electrickery gets.

    One issue, tho' - your current 'stat is a Programmable type, yes? It does both temps and timings? The DT90E appears to be a simple room stat so won't do your timings.

    Anyhoo, assuming you overcome that wee conundrum, they are easy to swap. Both use chust TWO wires, one going to A and one to B. You can even get them the other way around and it'll still work as the 'stat is effectively acting as a 'switch'.

    I understand that both require a back box in the wall (light a light switch would do)? In which case you simply remove the front unit, undo the two wires (noting which one goes to A) and then remove the two securing screws. Fit the new backplate on there with these two screws, and reconnect the two wires to A and B.

    Jobbie jobbed.

    OBVIOUSLY you turn off the power to the WHOLE CH system, and this should be via a single FSU or plugtop, probably mounted near the boiler.

    But, keep with the Prog Stat, man... :)
     
  11. Hello DA,

    You are to the rescue again - many thanks.

    That looks easy enough then, I should be able to manage that. Yes, it's fine that it isn't programmable, we'll just turn it on and off when we need it, we rarely ever programmed the other one anyway.

    So I assume that the back box has already been done, since the installation manual for the CM907 recommends one. I'll use that for the new one.

    I'll make sure I power everything off, I know where the switch for that is.

    Thanks again my friend and I'll keep you updated - WB engineer coming tomorrow and it's not a day too soon!!

    Cheers,
    Nick.
     

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